Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 13 of 14
  1. #1

    Lightbulb General feedback regarding DIY ventilation layout

    I included a photo of the general layout of my unfinished basement. Trying to get it to a slightly more comfortable zone than it is now, and affordable at the same time. I'll be having a system installed, but want to run the vents myself to save on labor dollars. I've run all the calculations that I am aware of to properly size and get good air circulation. But I'd love some feedback. I'm running all rigid sheet metal duct work, as working with the webbing of engineered i beams is annoying and limiting on diameter of holes.

    Name:  HVAC_Basement.png
Views: 104
Size:  76.8 KB

    Thanks so much in advance for your input!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Altmar, New York, United States
    Posts
    5,386
    is this house tight? what are the equipment model numbers?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    2,262
    If you live in a cold climate, I advise against supply registers in the ceiling. They never make the floor warm.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by hargrave81 View Post
    I included a photo of the general layout of my unfinished basement. Trying to get it to a slightly more comfortable zone than it is now, and affordable at the same time. I'll be having a system installed, but want to run the vents myself to save on labor dollars. I've run all the calculations that I am aware of to properly size and get good air circulation. But I'd love some feedback. I'm running all rigid sheet metal duct work, as working with the webbing of engineered i beams is annoying and limiting on diameter of holes.

    Name:  HVAC_Basement.png
Views: 104
Size:  76.8 KB

    Thanks so much in advance for your input!
    I think its layed out quite well. The only consideration I would bring up is how many people do you expect in the Theatre and will there be a few machines in that room that generate substantial heat ? If so, then it will most likely require another supply air vent that's moves some good cfm airflow. If youre ceiling is accessible, I guess yuou could always go back and put another one in, but....if that room is going to be putting out some heat then a 1.5 ton cooling system might be insufficient on a 90 f day.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Posts
    275
    I would think twice about putting that return right next to the bathroom door... and balance the return air volume with the supply air volume... 2-6" rounds equal one 8" round pipe, etc...

  6. #6
    Thanks for all the feed back so far!!! Great advice. I live in the south. The basement has 10" thick concrete walls, the basement style is walk-out, with 6" thick wood walls, and insulation that properly fills their cavities (R-19). The existing (without HVAC) temperatures vary by time of year from 50-70 degrees. If my kids decide to leave the door in the basement open it can get warmer in the summer, as high as 80. The outside temps do peek near the 100s, but typically are in the 90s during summer, and lows at night in the winter hit 20s, but days in the winter average 40-50. While the indoor basement temperature is fairly steady at around 60 degrees.

    @Johnnierandall, should I just run the 8" to the bedroom (with no return split off in that hall near the bathroom)? The people who built my home have like 2 returns for an entire floor, but it results in you needing to leave all the bedroom doors wide open to get decent air circulation. The lounge has a 8" return as well, and by volume should be sufficiently close.

  7. #7
    Thanks JustCallMeDave, really the only room that is going to have electronic warmth would be the computer room. The theater room is going to seat 6 comfortably. It might be worth it however as you have noted to just do a 2 ton to be sure it has the necessary power to facilitate unique temperature spikes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Posts
    275
    I put the same size duct/round pipe for supply as I do return, what goes in comes out...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by hargrave81 View Post
    Thanks JustCallMeDave, really the only room that is going to have electronic warmth would be the computer room. The theater room is going to seat 6 comfortably. It might be worth it however as you have noted to just do a 2 ton to be sure it has the necessary power to facilitate unique temperature spikes.
    t


    If its a walk out basement (without any of it underground), you have to treat it as a first floor when considering the cooling load ; and with 2,000 sq. ft. , youre going to have more than a 2 ton load when you add up the lighting, people load, machines I can tell you that. I strongly suggest you at least do a short-form cooling load estimate as you only get one chance at getting the cooling capacity of the system correct which determines the size of the ducts . The only caveat of using say a 2 ton capacity system, is that you can take advantage of 'Storage Effect' since its a space that will be used sporadically --- Storage Effect means pre-cooling the space way before occupancy to say 68-70 f., so that at when the space is being used the indoor temperature typically rises slowly to perhaps 75 f during the maximum cooling load when the space is occupied. But, do a cooling load estimate so you know what to expect -- you've got more than a 2 ton load I assure you even with the insulation.

  10. #10
    I denoted in gray where the concrete below-grade walls are, most of the basement is below grade (on a hill). Only the back of the house and about 8ft on both sides is above grade (or partially above grade)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by hargrave81 View Post
    I denoted in gray where the concrete below-grade walls are, most of the basement is below grade (on a hill). Only the back of the house and about 8ft on both sides is above grade (or partially above grade)
    Ok, sorry I missed that detail. But why not do a cooling load on the application anyway , or, did you ? I still think you would have more than a 2 ton cooling load given the sq. ft and internal load @ a 90 f. ambient outside temp. with high humidity.

  12. #12
    It does sound like a great idea @JustCallMeDate, I'm unsure how to do one of those myself, so I'll have to do some more research!

  13. #13
    I dug up an old picture of the basement before all the electrical/plumbing/drywall walls were done.


Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event