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  1. #27
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,084
    The new 80% have cut-outs on the sides for venting... not sure I like that...
    No way. I thought that looked horrible on a Carrier or Goodman back when they did it that way. We have a lot of downflows and often don't have much room for a big old flue pipe coming out the bottom side and up along the furnace. Not to mention how hot single wall pipe gets.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hampton, GA
    Posts
    537
    Quote Originally Posted by BaldLoonie View Post
    Use whatever chart is appropriate. Subcool on TXV inside, pressures on piston coils. I noticed some of the subcool targets are lower than before. Just gotta go real slowly!

    GA, what about MC outdoors on Rheem?
    I read optimized subcool is between 10-12. So seems like I am in ball park that's also following that chart they gave to base the charge off.
    wHen I diE I hOpe gOd haS mErcy oN my SiNful LifE

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hampton, GA
    Posts
    537
    BL....have you had any problems with the TXV going bad on the microchannel coils from Nordyne? Name:  WP_000131.jpg
Views: 172
Size:  38.2 KB
    wHen I diE I hOpe gOd haS mErcy oN my SiNful LifE

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    194
    The biggest problem I've seen is installer error on indoor coils, between the piston size and an epic run of retardation at our shop that had me looking at every MC coil we installed with a txv kit, they(our guys) never pulled the valve core from the equalizer tap....
    Well Ill be going back to the job I did on Tuesday. I also did not know u had to pull the valve core out of the equalizer tap. The system seemed to be running great. 10* subcool, 12* superheat, 20* split. I guess it all makes sense tho, there isnt a depresser on equalizer nut. What will happen if I dont remove valve core? There wasnt a tag saying so.
    Last edited by Carbent; 06-13-2013 at 05:58 PM. Reason: Wheres my sign

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    3,854
    The valve won't sense evap pressure and will shutdown causing high superheat

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,039
    There was a thread showing pic of a big yellow tag telling you to remove the schrader that they had to remove?

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    194
    I did the jjob prior to reading this thread

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hampton, GA
    Posts
    537
    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post
    There was a thread showing pic of a big yellow tag telling you to remove the schrader that they had to remove?
    Its in this thread! loll on pg 2. I just removed the TXV and replaced it today... the strainer was partial clogged with debris and was causing a restrictions. I saw it after I removed the old one. LOL, was very frustrating with my first TXV change out. ROFL
    wHen I diE I hOpe gOd haS mErcy oN my SiNful LifE

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,039
    Quote Originally Posted by mofotech View Post
    Its in this thread! loll on pg 2. I just removed the TXV and replaced it today... the strainer was partial clogged with debris and was causing a restrictions. I saw it after I removed the old one. LOL, was very frustrating with my first TXV change out. ROFL


    Was the debris oxide by chance? Because we just had a discussion where some members didn't think brazing with
    Nitrogen was all that important.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mid-Mo
    Posts
    3,595
    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post


    Was the debris oxide by chance? Because we just had a discussion where some members didn't think brazing with
    Nitrogen was all that important.
    I'd like to hear or see what copper oxide will do to the microchannel coil passages......I guess time will tell.

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hampton, GA
    Posts
    537
    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post


    Was the debris oxide by chance? Because we just had a discussion where some members didn't think brazing with
    Nitrogen was all that important.
    It sure was. Kinda shame on me...well my friends... whom brazed all the original lines. Although I did mention to him to do it but he was being an A-hole about it that time. Actually more ignorant. Then it came back to haunt me! ROFL. I did use nitrogen today. It seemed it was 1/3 clogged. The unit kept freezing. I saw it froze from the TXV all the way to the compressor. ROFL. And my suction won't go up at all. It floated around 90-95 psi and kept the saturation temp down. It was a real roll coaster ride.
    wHen I diE I hOpe gOd haS mErcy oN my SiNful LifE

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    12,280

    Another way to add an access valve 'hot' -

    Clean the line well and shiny all the way around with sand cloth.
    Use a clamp-on access valve.
    Remove the o-ring seal.
    Clean the inner clamping areas with sand cloth.
    Clean it with brake cleaner or other solvent.
    Dry it and re-install the little o-ring seal
    Install the clamp-on valve with J/B weld smeared lightly on all the inner clamping surfaces Outside the little r-ring seal.
    Wait 24 hours before running the piercing needle in.
    Put the seal cap on, lightly wire brush the whole valve, and paint it with engine enamel.
    They last a very long time installed that way.

    But don't ever let anyone know you have done this or they will call you a hack. <g>

    PHM
    -------





    Quote Originally Posted by DOGBOY View Post
    you can try this. They come in all sizes. you just can't solder them on with the compressor pumping as it seems to remove your heat. Go figure.

    http://www.hvacr-tools.com/product/c...dle-valve-5-16
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  13. #39
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,084
    Knock on simulated wood but we've found the Danfoss TXVs Nordyne uses to be more reliable than some of the other brands.

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