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  1. #1

    microchannel problems

    is anyone having problems with nordine microchannel evaporator coils?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Kennesaw, GA
    Posts
    619
    I heard from Baloonie, that microchannel are very charge sensitive and one should charge them slowly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,613
    Yea, haven't had any failures (yet) but you sure do have to be careful charging. They can have blockages that make it look undercharged. Then the blockage breaks free and suddenly you are way overcharged. Had issues with high head in heat mode with MC indoor coil. Nordyne came out with a fan cycle kit for heating. For piston matches, we usually find the coil piston is the wrong size so be sure to use the right one from the outdoor unit. Yesterday's job had 3 different pistons come with the outdoor unit and they needed piston was much larger than what came in the 1824 coil for a 2 ton.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    4,483
    Thanks for the good info Loonie!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Kennesaw, GA
    Posts
    619
    I am soon going to be involved installing as a team, 2 Philco units and both indoor and outdoor units have microchannel technology. Thank god, I am a member here and I was able to read your comments. Now I can advice my friends that day when we actually do the install. Not bad units they come with scroll compressors and HPS on the system. I wish it also had a LPS. I guess it can be added but damn we will then need a recovery machine and alot of patience!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    4,483
    why do you need all that?

    Get a tee with depressor built into it. screw it to the suction service valve. screw the LPS into the tee side of the fitting. wire it in series with contactor coil and call it a day.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Kennesaw, GA
    Posts
    619
    That's awesome! I didn't think of that! I actually thought about using a piercing valve but then remembered that you can't leave those permanent and will need a stem valve installed where the original pierced valve is installed. Awesome! Thanks for the suggestion!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    21,765
    Quote Originally Posted by gravity View Post
    why do you need all that?

    Get a tee with depressor built into it. screw it to the suction service valve. screw the LPS into the tee side of the fitting. wire it in series with contactor coil and call it a day.
    Quote Originally Posted by mofotech View Post
    That's awesome! I didn't think of that! I actually thought about using a piercing valve but then remembered that you can't leave those permanent and will need a stem valve installed where the original pierced valve is installed. Awesome! Thanks for the suggestion!
    Potential for leaks... and it is outside the unit... looks hokey to me.

    OTOH: a drop of nylog on each set of threads... and the potential for a leak is seriously diminished.
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service!

    Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8

    2 Chronicles 7:14

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Bristol Va.
    Posts
    633
    you can try this. They come in all sizes. you just can't solder them on with the compressor pumping as it seems to remove your heat. Go figure.

    http://www.hvacr-tools.com/product/c...dle-valve-5-16

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,051
    Don't think you should braze or solder on a line with refrigerant inside seems dangerous.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    805
    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post
    Don't think you should braze or solder on a line with refrigerant inside seems dangerous.
    I don't enjoy it, but I have done it.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    north georiga
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by MicahWes View Post
    I don't enjoy it, but I have done it.
    do you use low temp solder

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    13,551

    Another way to add an access valve 'hot' -

    Clean the line well and shiny all the way around with sand cloth.
    Use a clamp-on access valve.
    Remove the o-ring seal.
    Clean the inner clamping areas with sand cloth.
    Clean it with brake cleaner or other solvent.
    Dry it and re-install the little o-ring seal
    Install the clamp-on valve with J/B weld smeared lightly on all the inner clamping surfaces Outside the little r-ring seal.
    Wait 24 hours before running the piercing needle in.
    Put the seal cap on, lightly wire brush the whole valve, and paint it with engine enamel.
    They last a very long time installed that way.

    But don't ever let anyone know you have done this or they will call you a hack. <g>

    PHM
    -------





    Quote Originally Posted by DOGBOY View Post
    you can try this. They come in all sizes. you just can't solder them on with the compressor pumping as it seems to remove your heat. Go figure.

    http://www.hvacr-tools.com/product/c...dle-valve-5-16
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

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