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01-17-2013, 11:55 AM #40
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01-17-2013, 11:55 AM #41
the system needs the proper pump and piping parameters to work as designed, taking shortcuts just costs more money in the long run.
Certified parts changer.
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01-17-2013, 11:57 AM #42
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Every "Expert" I talk to sayz that the other guy doesnt know what he's talking about.
Story of my Hydronics life
Greg
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01-17-2013, 12:02 PM #43
We're are you located? There might be a member here In your area.
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01-17-2013, 12:03 PM #44
Too bad the expert their talking about is you. An engineer should have designed your hydronic system followed by a qualified installation company to install it using proper install practices that can only be learned thru schooling and OJT. This is not something you can do by following the directions in the install manual- obviously.
Certified parts changer.
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01-17-2013, 12:07 PM #45
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01-17-2013, 12:10 PM #46
I guess you can't face the facts of good money you wasted trying to take a short cut, don't be mad at me for pointing out the facts of your situation; time to pay the piper and stand up swollow your pride and ego. Or just listen to the hammering sound from you brand new system.
Certified parts changer.
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01-17-2013, 02:27 PM #47
Why 50/50?
Looking at my handy chart (I deal in industrial chillers at my work):
25% = 14F
30% = 10F
40% = -6F
50% = -28F
Keep in mind the pipe burst rating is much lower temps. Meaning the freezing point is when the liquid is sitting in an open bucket and starts to turn into slush. Slush won't pump, but it won't destroy piping. 24% will get your burst protection to 0F, which is probably all you need.
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedL...romPage=GetDoc
To be honest, most cars probaly don't need 50%, but they are some and operated in such a wide range of location, that they play it safe. FWIM, we use 20-25% in our chilled water system so we can run 32F water temps, keep CW coils in 100% outside air handler from bursting if hte pumps or steam reheat fails, and lastly, I think 15-20% is needed ot prevent bacteria growth... obvisouly not an issue in a hot water boiler that runs over 120F.
Maybe just try dropping the glycol percentage and see what happens.
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01-17-2013, 02:27 PM #48
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Good luck Gregg with resolving your issues.
I'd continue to try and help in anyway I could (or am allowed to) if I felt it would make a difference, but I sense that won't be the case.
All of the threads in this forum provide information in one form or another to all those that read them. This thread is no different.Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
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01-17-2013, 02:27 PM #49
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01-17-2013, 02:33 PM #50
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01-17-2013, 03:00 PM #51
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01-17-2013, 03:02 PM #52



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