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Thread: Bad liquid service valve

  1. #1
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    Bad liquid service valve

    Went out today to do a simple coil-pull-and -clean and low and behold a huge problem. Went to do a pump down and shut the liquid line service valve and guess what? It would not shut down. I took and pressed down on it to get the threads started but that did not work. Duhhhhhhhh......

    Had to explain to the customer that I now need to replace service valve as well as the coil clean. Lucky he understood and I grabbed the recover tank and recovery machine to reclaim the R22. Cut coil out and cleaned with my coil gun, man I love that thing.

    Reinstalled coil and added new heat pump dryer while at it. Cut service valve out and installed new one. Charged to proper superheat using my Amp-probe to take WB readings and plugged in the super heat reading to SMAN3 to dial it in.

    I am thinking the installer must have cooked the valve and when he opened the valve on start up , front seated to valve to much. What do you guys think?

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Solutions Heating and Air, Inc. Jacksonville, Florida "Solutions for All Your HVAC Needs"

  2. #2
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    Sounds practical.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by myott View Post
    Cut coil out and cleaned with my coil gun, man I love that thing.

    Do you always remove the coil to clean ?

    I am thinking the installer must have cooked the valve and when he opened the valve on start up , front seated to valve to much. What do you guys think?

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Did you mean to say back seated the valve to much ?

  4. #4
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    If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by timjimbob View Post
    If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.
    when they did use them it was only on the suction line, they have not been used in quite a few years though.

  6. #6
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    Thread Starter
    Yes, back seated valve.

  7. #7
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by timjimbob View Post
    If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.
    It was a Carrier

  8. #8
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    myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

    Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by timjimbob View Post
    myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

    Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.
    Never thought of this. Do you open the tubing using a flaring block?
    I miss you mom and dad.

  10. #10
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    Same tool .does both

  11. #11
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    Thanks, that will come in handy.
    I miss you mom and dad.

  12. #12
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    **** happens and valves fail to hold all the time, no need to automatically blame the installer or a person.. That effing valve was probably made in China anyway.

  13. #13
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    Valves aren't what they used to be. I heat sink the valves with extra rags...makes brazing a little tougher, but at least I don't cook any more cheap Chinese valves.

    I'd hate to be the guy using a Turbo Torch these day...you have to use them full open and you can't adjust the flame size. Makes for any easy overheat situation.

    I know few guys who can use a Turbo with out over heating line set and valves.

  14. #14
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    Valves aren't what they used to be. I heat sink the valves with extra rags...makes brazing a little tougher, but at least I don't cook any more cheap Chinese valves.

    I'd hate to be the guy using a Turbo Torch these day...you have to use them full open and you can't adjust the flame size. Makes for any easy overheat situation.

    I know few guys who can use a Turbo with out over heating line set and valves.

  15. #15
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    what the brand of that pinch off tool.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by trai View Post
    what the brand of that pinch off tool.
    Imperial tools makes one.

  17. #17
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    For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my
    I agree.

  19. #19
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by timjimbob View Post
    myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

    Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.
    If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Solutions Heating and Air, Inc. Jacksonville, Florida "Solutions for All Your HVAC Needs"

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by myott View Post
    If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    just use the low side valve port

    you will have low side valve closed off , so the shrader will still be available to you on the evap side

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