Structural brick often has 4 courses with a gap between the pairs. I think that gives you an r value of about 5. The interior course becomes interior thermal mass and peak temps have less effect so so the heat pump runs less in the coldest temps... and better wont need heat strips as much.
Throw plaster or drywall on framing, and without any insuation you have another maybe r3.
Sent from my SGPT12 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks, moto. My 1950s brick house is 2X4 stick built with a brick veneer and has plaster over actual sheet rock and a tar paper vapor barrier. This is standard fare for 1950s construction in my area.
What thermostat does he have. I still say that heat pack is coming on way more than need be. Maybe the heat pack is not staged and is entirely too large.
It's a Honeywell Vision Pro 1028 stat. According to the OP, the auxilliary light has not been turning on as much since what ever wiring issue was corrected. But with the ducting issues, I suspect the heat pump is shutting down on high pressure, causing the strip heaters to operate more than they should.
I have a 1929, 2200sq ft plaster house. Clapboard siding, covered with white aluminum siding. No insulation. My electric bill with a 4-Ton trane heat pump is under 250 in the winter months. So, the OP has a wiring or an HVAC installation issue IMO. Duct leaks, heat pack wired with wrong terminal, not charged correctly.......something.........it's just not insulation.