freestanding LP stove input gas pressure issue?

[hvac/airplanes]

Why am I reading only about 1.5" w.c. for incoming pressure at propane free standing gas valve. I'm getting about 12"wc at meter next to the house. The stove is working ok, my meter is digital and accurate, with new batt's. This is the second one I have not been able to get an accurate incoming pressure reading from. When checking nat gas and propane furnaces, I'm reading correct measurements. My hose is snug around press. tap, and the screw is backed out a couple turns. Do you have to use a specific hose or meter, I wouldn't think so. Any input would help. By the way, nothing kinked between 2nd regulator and appliance and no leaks. Thank you

[jtrammel]

G

[2141]

Why am I reading only about 1.5" w.c. for incoming pressure at propane free standing gas valve. I'm getting about 12"wc at meter next to the house. The stove is working ok, my meter is digital and accurate, with new batt's. This is the second one I have not been able to get an accurate incoming pressure reading from. When checking nat gas and propane furnaces, I'm reading correct measurements. My hose is snug around press. tap, and the screw is backed out a couple turns. Do you have to use a specific hose or meter, I wouldn't think so. Any input would help. By the way, nothing kinked between 2nd regulator and appliance and no leaks. Thank you

I had a similar issue on Thursday. I thought the regulator outside was bad because I couldn't get incoming pressure above 10. called propane supplier and they came out and swapped the regulator and then he told me the second regulator inside was not supposed to be there and was causing my issue. Had to schedule a return trip so I can't confirm but it could be the issue.

[talktowags]

There is no way stove is operating properly with 1.5" wc. You have 12" before or after reg on the house ?? as stated above, you may be double reged. How old is the unit ? gas line could be sludged up.

[perfectionist]

A digital meter is great but I double check my measurements w/ a U-Tube manometer to ensure accuracy. U-Tube never needs batteries or calibration.

[uniservice]

A digital meter is great but I double check my measurements w/ a U-Tube manometer to ensure accuracy. U-Tube never needs batteries or calibration.

I have three analog manometers, and a couple of Utubes, and a water manometer. To set and adjust LP gas input, I use only a water manometer, and have been doing it for 47 years. There are times when using them, I've experienced conditions that I call "Regulator Creep." Come across a system where the only appliance on the system is an automatic ignition, or direct fire appliance, and you are experiencing nuisance lockouts of the appliance. Hang a manometer on it and the gas pressure is right on the money,,,11" W/C for LP, or 7.5" for nat. Have left the manometer on the system (preferably outside the building). left and do another call, return and find all the water blown out of the manometer. First time I called the Nat. gas supplier and told their service dispatcher what I found, he was pretty incredulous. But he sent a service guy out and replaced the regulator, and solved the problem. It doesn't happen on systems that have a standing pilot appliance. The one time I decided to monitor the gas system with my dial (analog) manometer, probably because there was no water available, or it was below freezing, or i was just lazy, when I returned to the job a couple of hours later, the manometer was pegged, and the gauge was ruined. Now it's strictly a water type for me. Have read all the hype about digitals, but haven't as yet bought one. Old school. On a related subject, I own a few digital VOM-Amp meters, but usually use my older analogs for troubleshooting. If you are testing for a faulty component in a system, an analog may key into a relay, or other part that is just opening or closing for a split second. A digital meter isn't quick enough to react to the glitch, but an analog will show it with the needle jumping back and forth. Nuff said. I'm a Charter member of the Old Gruppy Guys Club.

[hvac/airplanes]

I also had the same readings awhile ago on a 2001 lp stove. Incoming press. at the gv was extremely low and at the house regulator I had 11.5"wc coming into the house. This one would light the main burner for awhile, then everything would extinguish, including the pilot. I jumpered past the mv stat. Then I checked and found about 300mv at my thermopile hooked up. I changed the thermopile, didn't help. The t-couple was new. The gas valve may be weak, but I know they are pretty bullet-proof. I try not to be a parts changer but what else is left if not the valve?

[beenthere]

You said incoming gas pressure. That would be before the gas valve, not after. So are you talking about before the gas valve or after it.

[hvac/airplanes]

At the inlet of the gas valve. Downstream of 2nd regulator, inlet of gas valve.

[beenthere]

Then the gas valve isn't the problem.

Second regulator. Are you referring to the house regulator, or is their a second regulator after that one.

[hvac/airplanes]

There is a regulator on the tank, then one more at the house before it goes in the house. The one at the house is reading 11.5"wc. There is no other regulator before the stove. The stove is the only gas appliance. I checked for kinks and found none. My digital manometer must be giving me a false reading, or I'm missing something all together. What else would cause the main flame and the pilot to go out if the thermopile has been replaced, the t-couple is new, and the t-stat jumpered. The flue terminates right out the back and the flames are not lifting off the burner.

[beenthere]

Gas valve.

Take a manifold reading.

[hvac/airplanes]

Thank you for your help, very appreciated.