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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    68,117
    Quote Originally Posted by Labrat0116 View Post
    Very good info!

    The return air ducts are not yet connected to the "inside - 1st floor" return vent work. BTW, they are a pair of (12") ducts that run up there. The furnace is in a crawl space under the house. The return air is being drawn from that area. Not ideal by any means.

    Anyways, the ambient temperature under the house now is probably in the 40s F. So that is probably why the supply air right now is luke warm. ??
    That will do it. That furnace is probably limited to a min return temp of 50. So leaving it to pull that air wasn't a good thing.
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  2. #15
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,307
    Quote Originally Posted by Labrat0116 View Post
    I found a document On-line that shows the Temp Rise --- 40 - 70 F for this unit.

    Going down to 23 degrees (where is the degree sign on the keyboard ??) by tomorrow AM so the Contractor best be here at 0830 like he said he would be!
    LOL make sure your number lock is *on* ------> alt + 0176 -----> like this 23

    or go to your character map, it will be in there ---> start button---> all programs----> accessories------> system tools----> Character map

    if this furnace is in a crawl space that is always cold, I would also have the contractor install a couple heat runs down there to keep the crawl space a little warmer. and insulate the crawl space
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    any questions

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    You said the contractor didn't install the combustion air inlet pipe. How long of a temporary pipe did he leave installed? Usually you need to have a minimum of 12" plus 1 elbow. Could be that the furance blew cold air because on the first attempt to light, it faulted out. The lockout sometimes requires the blower to run for 5 minutes before it will retry up to 3 times total.

    50% might be a stretch. Maybe a 1920's gravity furnace... but a late 1970's unit, Probably more like 70%. The standing pilots hurt AFUE a lot. Heat output won't be a lot different, but it does sound like the airflow could be set fairly high.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,663
    Sounds like we will be hearing more about this instal.
    My name is TooCoolforschool and I am a chronic over charger.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    3,537
    Pulling return from the crawlspace? I'm assuming they'll correct that pronto as that's a big no-no.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,307
    Quote Originally Posted by toocoolforschool View Post
    Sounds like we will be hearing more about this instal.
    pictures would be nice.......of the furnace install......
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,555
    First-off, let the installers finish their job!
    Nobody here has a clue as to your current situation being that the install is incomplete! If problems persist after installation is complete, then pictures may/can be helpful!


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  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,555
    Quote Originally Posted by motoguy128 View Post
    You said the contractor didn't install the combustion air inlet pipe. How long of a temporary pipe did he leave installed? Usually you need to have a minimum of 12" plus 1 elbow. Could be that the furance blew cold air because on the first attempt to light, it faulted out. The lockout sometimes requires the blower to run for 5 minutes before it will retry up to 3 times total.

    50% might be a stretch. Maybe a 1920's gravity furnace... but a late 1970's unit, Probably more like 70%. The standing pilots hurt AFUE a lot. Heat output won't be a lot different, but it does sound like the airflow could be set fairly high.
    I have seen late 70's to even present units well under rated efficiency.
    NCI class I took taught to use combustion as well as TESP to determine system efficiency(s).
    Actual name of test procedure is slipping my mind as of now, but I'm sure someone can chime in to back me up on this!


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
    "Will work for knowledge"

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  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    Just seems like that at 50% effciency, you're looking at something like 350F flue temps. Is that normal. I natural draft gas water heaters run that hot.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,663
    Quote Originally Posted by kamersoutdoor View Post
    First-off, let the installers finish their job!
    Nobody here has a clue as to your current situation being that the install is incomplete! If problems persist after installation is complete, then pictures may/can be helpful!


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Be that as it may why are they using a furnace that is not fully installed???? WARNING this can be fatal.
    My name is TooCoolforschool and I am a chronic over charger.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,555
    Quote Originally Posted by toocoolforschool View Post
    Be that as it may why are they using a furnace that is not fully installed???? WARNING this can be fatal.
    Sorry, that is what I meant! I should have emphasized on that further when stating "Let installers complete"

    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
    "Will work for knowledge"

    "Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid"
    A Einstein

  12. #25

    Exclamation Had to Reboot/Reset a New Rheen RGPS..... WHY was this necessary ?

    We just had a brand new Rheem RGPS installed a few weeks ago. Overall it's been working good. That was until a few days ago.

    The inducer fan would come on, burners fire and then everything would immediately shut down. These "misfire" cycles were intermitten and sporadic. They became more frequent and to the point that the furnace would not kick on at all.

    Of course it's the weekend and hard to get hold of our installer.

    Finally did so and he said we needed to "RESET" the furnace. I'm at work (of course) so he had to come out to the house and do it himself.

    My question is "WHY would a brand new furnace NEED to be reset in the first place ??

    TIA

  13. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by wahoo View Post
    Pulling return from the crawlspace? I'm assuming they'll correct that pronto as that's a big no-no.
    Yup. I know.

    They did come back and finish hooking up the intake vent pipes as they said they would.

    There is a separate issue now where we had to call them today. He came out and said he had to "RESET" the furnace. Whatever that means. ??
    Last edited by beenthere; 01-27-2013 at 06:48 AM. Reason: removed link to second thread

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