Just seems like that at 50% effciency, you're looking at something like 350F flue temps. Is that normal. I natural draft gas water heaters run that hot.
I have seen late 70's to even present units well under rated efficiency.
NCI class I took taught to use combustion as well as TESP to determine system efficiency(s).
Actual name of test procedure is slipping my mind as of now, but I'm sure someone can chime in to back me up on this!
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Just seems like that at 50% effciency, you're looking at something like 350F flue temps. Is that normal. I natural draft gas water heaters run that hot.
Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
"Will work for knowledge"
"Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid"
A Einstein
We just had a brand new Rheem RGPS installed a few weeks ago. Overall it's been working good. That was until a few days ago.
The inducer fan would come on, burners fire and then everything would immediately shut down. These "misfire" cycles were intermitten and sporadic. They became more frequent and to the point that the furnace would not kick on at all.
Of course it's the weekend and hard to get hold of our installer.
Finally did so and he said we needed to "RESET" the furnace. I'm at work (of course) so he had to come out to the house and do it himself.
My question is "WHY would a brand new furnace NEED to be reset in the first place ??
TIA
Last edited by beenthere; 01-27-2013 at 06:48 AM. Reason: removed link to second thread
I merged the threads, since it makes it easier for people to understand all the possible problems.
It shouldn't have to be reset, if it happens again I would dig a little deeper if not it could've been a fluke (power surge, power flicker etc)
Ok, Service Tech came out this AM, said it sounds like the flu pressure switch is tripping. There wasn't any codes stored since we were instructed to reset the furnace by turning the circuit breaker on/off/on.
When he went down to check it out, the furnace turned ON without him even touching anything. I was standing right behind him and could verify this. We were both like "WTHeck" ? He powered off the furnace (safety switch installed outside the cabinet), took off the top front cover. He said the switch (looked like a hockey puck) mounting plate was bent a bit and could have been rubbing against the cabinet. That's the only thing he could see as a possibility.
He showed me the troubleshooting lights and to call him with the codes if anything should happen.
The house was 57 degrees and T-Stat set at 70 degrees..... Furnace ran fine until it hit 66 degrees and shut OFF. Normally, it would go to 70 degrees and shut off.
I went down below to see if there were any Codes to read. There were NO lights what-so-ever. A few minutes passed and the furnace kicked back ON. It was OFF for around (20) minutes or so.
Any idea WHY the furnace would now shut off 4 degrees BEFORE the setting when it did NOT before hand ?
BTW, I believe I forgot to mention about that the Tech did replace the T-Stat last week with a digital type. Model Pro 1 IAQ T701 1 Stage.
It's tripping either a high temp limit from long run times with inadequate duct, low fan speed, dirty filter, or some type of air flow restriction or the vent pipe is too small or too long or without the correct pitch. Could be done other things but this gives you an idea.
ok.... I'll post pics of the furnace/install a bit later today.
The chimney is clear for sure (cleaned it out last year) so I now that is not the issue. The vent pipe off the furnace is the same diameter as the initial connection point (furnace), it does bend up a few feet and is spliced into the larger diameter flu pipe that goes to the chimney.
Furnace still running since my last posting (14 minutes ago)..... 68 degrees in here.....T-Stat at 70...
What size is the return ducting (side of airflow where the filter is located)?
possible reverse polarity on the 120v incoming power???
Has the Tech tried jumping out the thermostat???
which furnace is this, the rheem? what other thread was merged here??? Does it involve a different furnace?
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What's the complete model # of the furnace? Need to know size to see if duct is too small. 2-12" metal pipes with straight runs will provide approximately 1200cfm which is enough for a 3 ton ac or ~70kbtu gas furnace. How big are the return air grilles? They will add restriction if too small, of its flexible duct they cause restriction as well.
is this in an attic?
Why am I the only naked person at this gender reveal party
No, it's in a crawl space under the house. The house is 101 years old.
Here's a video I just took.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baxBd...ature=youtu.be
I believe the model is a RGPS. Gas, updraft. I need to find the papers on it...
As for the registers.... there are 5 downstairs and 4 upstairs. The are all approximately
(did not measure).... 4" x 10" each. One downstairs is kept closed since it's only 4 feet from the T-Stat. The house is pretty small Sq Ft about 1100 or so.
I just remembered..... Here are some pics of the old furnace when we bought the house 17 years ago. I cleaned up a lot of that mess since. You're gonna love how the previous owner had the AC condensation drain set up!!
http://katmanduonline.net/pics/ACFURNACEPics/index.html
To give a better idea of the size house, here's pics of it.
http://katmanduonline.net/pics/NewHousePaint2006/