why did the not install a filter rack with a door .that job looks low bidder to me and will perform like it .if the reused the coil hope they cleaned it also would want it reconnected and recharged before paying as if they are competent it could be done
I don't know about the filter door.... ??
The AC coil was actually very clean when they pulled it out.
They are coming back when the weather warms up (they said above 50 degrees) to recharge the AC and also install the automated sump pump setup.
They could have done a couple of different things. 1) they could have installed a box plenum that went to the floor joists, come off the back with a start collar into a short way 45, then into a long way 90. or 2) used a radius plenum
either one will make for MUCH better air flow.
Ok, I got ya now. Actually, those runs have very decent air flow, the only complaint is the long one (35' or so) puts out luke warm air by the time it gets to the register.
The run we really have a problem (very low air flow), is the one in the pic below circled in GREEN. That run feeds (2) registers and has very low output.
Perhaps if the point of junction was moved higher (like the others), it would get more air pressure and flow. ??
Like jmac said, it would Prob be easier to install a new plenum than connect to what's there. I understand trying to get a job done quickly so labor doesn't eat up your profit but a good tin knocker could knock a new supply and return plenum up in an hour and it would be beneficial for airflow and life of the unit. It looks like the contractor bid low to get the job and quality suffered due to that. All of the duct needs mastic sealed and insulated but your return would be severely insufficient if it was sealed.
It shouldn't have to be reset, if it happens again I would dig a little deeper if not it could've been a fluke (power surge, power flicker etc)
Well, I found the culprit that was causing the furnace to NOT come ON fully. It was turning ON the inducer fan, burners firing and when the blower would go to START up the whole furnace would shut DOWN.
The furnace is wired into a plug-in outlet. Probably not to Code, but that's they way it's been since we bought the house in 1995.
Turns out, the plug was LOOSE! Therefore not making a FULL connection.
I was down there investigating the situation. When I saw the plug was loose as soon as I pushed it in sooner, the furnace fired right on up and has been running great ever since!
If you've got an older home, built before 1975 or so, then you've probably not gotten three wire high voltage wiring (two insulated and one ground). That means someone installed "three prong outlets" without the much needed bare ground wire so you may be plugging into an outlet that is not actually grounded. I'm pretty sure that an outlet is not an accepted method of connecting a furnace as it's not a portable appliance. But to be sure I'd add an external wire from furnace ground to a grounded connection of some kind. If in doubt, contact a licensed electrician and they can do it. Ungrounded newer furnaces will have a lot of nuisance lockouts and erratic operation.
If you've got an older home, built before 1975 or so, then you've probably not gotten three wire high voltage wiring (two insulated and one ground). That means someone installed "three prong outlets" without the much needed bare ground wire so you may be plugging into an outlet that is not actually grounded.
The house does have updated (3 wire) wiring. Also, the furnace line is a dedicated run straight off the circuit panel box.
I agree that a weak (no ground) connection will cause nuisance lockouts.
BTW, the Tech was VERY rude to my wife saying he did not like nuisance call-outs such as this! Well, we don't like the nuisance of a no heat in 10 degree weather from a brand new furnace!
This company will get low ratings from us as a result of his extreme rudeness.