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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,928
    Quote Originally Posted by littlebigdad View Post
    Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I haven't replaced maybe a dozen flame sensors in 25 years
    Usually, guys condemn them as a part of "shotgun service"

    Can't figure out what's wrong, so they order a module, a spark electrode, a flame rod, a gas valve.....


  2. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, Canada Occupation:Interprovincial Plumber, Commercial Gasfitter Interests:
    Posts
    2,414
    we had a guy use a screwdriver as a temp rod. It worked.
    I love my job, but paydays Thursday

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    east kansas
    Posts
    8,038
    A lot of effort for little gain.

    Throw them in with your igniters. If you think you have a bad one on a call replace it with your stock. If still doesn't work, get a new one.

    Flame sensors I've changed in close to 20 years:

    Trane on LP. They seem to burn a grove in the rod and break.

    Rheem. Two occasions. The sensor looks good, just didn't work. Replace the sensor and all is good.

    Carrier. Ceramic broken and rod spinning. But it worked until the next day when I replaced it.

    BTW, how did you get so many flame sensors?
    Beware of advice given by some guy on the Internet.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
    Posts
    6,295
    Due to their environment, any flame rod must be made of a corrosion resistant material. If you get dirt or pitting from arcing, you can get signal degradation.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    In a boiler room
    Posts
    7,223
    Quote Originally Posted by LKJoel View Post
    I was always told that flame sensors had a coating on them that helped the flame rectification, and that if it was damaged, it would not pass through the correct flame signal

    Is this accurate? Or was somebody misinformed
    No, it needs to be the bare metal. A coating of any kind will cause more resistance.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,182
    Quote Originally Posted by Core_d View Post
    I can't get a uA reading on my home furnace at all. Its an janitol with a spark igniter. flame sensor is coming from ignition module i know its good if i unplug it durners shut down and spark starts up and i know my meter is good ive tested the sensors at my school the same day. This has been bugging me can anyone please give me an explanation?
    I the meter at school a better meter?
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,776
    Quote Originally Posted by chaser310 View Post
    I have a hand full of f/s . Was just wondering can they be tested out of a furnace with just a flame (torch or lighter) and meter? Kind of like testing a t-couple on a bench? If not I will just check them on the shop furnace.

    Thanks
    Its just a piece of metal. Clean it with steel wool or a dollar bill, never sand paper or emery cloth. Its good to go. As long as the ceramic isn't broke, it isn't pitted or physically broke.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    552
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Its just a piece of metal. Clean it with steel wool or a dollar bill, never sand paper or emery cloth. Its good to go. As long as the ceramic isn't broke, it isn't pitted or physically broke.
    If its just steel, with no special coating, why not use sand paper or emery cloth?

  9. #22
    The glass in the sand will insulate the the rod making it useless

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,776
    Quote Originally Posted by LKJoel View Post
    If its just steel, with no special coating, why not use sand paper or emery cloth?
    Scratching and scarring the surface causes it to get dirty faster.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    columbus, OH
    Posts
    2,196
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    I the meter at school a better meter?
    No, same meter. ❓

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    3,650
    I've always wondered: Why would you check ground if you are getting adequate uAs DC? Don't the uAs depend on a good ground?

    It is a circuit, afterall...?

    I've never had to replace one yet, and don't expect to any time soon. Also, I like just a little abrasiveness when I clean them - so I make little custom pieces of emory cloth by turning the rough surfaces on each other and sanding off and smoothing them quite a bit. Then simply turn the cloth over to the smooth side for a polishing when I'm done cleaning with the smoothed, formerly abrasive side.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by hurtinhvac View Post
    I've always wondered: Why would you check ground if you are getting adequate uAs DC? Don't the uAs depend on a good ground?

    It is a circuit, afterall...?

    I've never had to replace one yet, and don't expect to any time soon. Also, I like just a little abrasiveness when I clean them - so I make little custom pieces of emory cloth by turning the rough surfaces on each other and sanding off and smoothing them quite a bit. Then simply turn the cloth over to the smooth side for a polishing when I'm done cleaning with the smoothed, formerly abrasive side.
    Same here, unless its friday and I still have a dollar bill.

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