Boiler won't fire unless......
I have a 35 year old Utica PEG-187S steam boiler running on a millivolt system. The gas control consists of a Honeywell
VS820 with powerpile.
The boiler will not fire up unless I momentarily short the two wires going to the TH terminals on the gas control. Once the
boiler runs, it turns off on its own when the programmed temperature setting is reached.
The pilot light works. I checked all the wiring and the low water cutoff switch.
Can anyone suggest what may be causing this problem?
You need to get a competent tech in there to do some thorough testing of the system.
I really can't get into more specifics. It could be a number of things.
This really isn't one for the diy guy. Millivolt systems are a different animal, most techs now really haven't seen them though they are making a comeback on a lot of newer fvir water heaters.
Small Change, thanks for your reply.
My system is not very sophisticated in that it contains no electronic controls. The VS820 gas control is connected directly to the thermostat and low water cut-off. The is no intervening electronic circuitry.
We are not allowed to respond to DIY request. Against the rules for this board.
Which thermostat are you using?
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Steam boilers should be serviced by experienced technician on a annual basis. Safety, efficiency and reliability dictate this requirement.
There is no such thing as DIY steam boiler service.
Shorting wires on gas appliance= kaboom
My name is TooCoolforschool and I am a chronic over charger.
I installed this boiler myself 35 years ago and have been maintaining it ever since then. I was a licensed high pressure steam boiler operator and am aware of the safety issued involved with steam. I do not think an experienced technician in needed in this case.
then why are you here.
Originally Posted by Portgas
Give a man a fish, he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish, he will eat for a lifetime.
Give a man a capacitor, doesn't know what to do. Teach a man to install it, now he knows everything.
I know whats wrong with it, but sadly due to the site rules im not allowed to say what it is, anyone who has ever worked on milivolt systems will know also
The 2008 NATE TOP TECH!!!!!
Do you have a meter that can measure milivolts?
Do you know how much juice the thermocouple should normally produce?
I remember servicing thermopile wall and floor heaters out in California as a tech. Could give me fits at times trying to figure out problems on them. Walkaway lessons: tight and clean connections, sufficient power production from thermopile. Beyond that the points of failure become larger. That's all I can say.
- Electricity makes refrigeration happen.
- Refrigeration makes the HVAC psychrometric process happen.
- HVAC pyschrometrics is what makes indoor human comfort happen...IF the ducts AND the building envelope cooperate.
A building is NOT beautiful unless it is also comfortable.
I do have a meter which is capable of measuring millivolts.
You have given me some sound advice. I checked and secured all connections. This seem sot have solved my problem.
The thermopile should measure min of 560 millivolts up to 750 millivolts when not connected to the circuit. I have not performed this test yet but plan to.