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01-04-2013, 09:29 AM #14
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Sealed electronics, stainless steel housing, nice. I would have no problem mounting this directly on chilled water pipe. The only thing I wonder about past failures is maybe water hammer from automatic valves and/or check valves? I have seen a couple of sites where it was bad enough to make me want to run for cover.
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01-04-2013, 06:05 PM #15
water hammer can be VARY SCARY!!
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blast'em man blast'em
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01-04-2013, 11:36 PM #16
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01-07-2013, 09:48 AM #17
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Azka, can you just "Google" that? I don't know the definition, and I would probably end up talking in circles trying to describe it. But I believe it involves the quick shutting (or repositioning) of a valve in a piping system that can result in the rapid, repetitive sound- similar to a hammer banging on the pipe. In a chilled water plant, the result can be seen as movement of the pipes, sometimes a very large movement, along with a loud "bang" noise. I believe these noises and pipe movements are the results of sudden pressure changes and/or rapid fluctuations of pressure.
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01-07-2013, 09:49 AM #18
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01-07-2013, 03:41 PM #19
Azka,
Water hammer happens when a isolation valve closes too fast or suddenly.
This normally happens w 4" and up water piping,.
When it happens you will want to take cover!., I had a gasket blow out on me one time on an 8" pipe one time and my partner took off running lol
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01-07-2013, 07:05 PM #20
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01-07-2013, 09:50 PM #21
Water hammer can happen on any size pipe, it just scares you a bunch more on bigger stuff.
I see it happen a lot on 1/2" and 3/4" pipe. http://www.pexsupply.com/Water-Hamme...stors-10951000
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer"How it can be considered "Open" is beyond me. Calling it "voyeur-ed" would be more accurate." pka LeroyMac, SkyIsBlue, fka Freddy-B, Mongo, IndyBlue
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01-17-2013, 07:24 AM #22
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I would sugggest to install the sensor on a tee in order to be able to bleed air easily. Install the sensor on the side port of tee with elbow to have sensor vertical, water line below, and drain with upper port. Even better, install gauge on upper port just to double check readings. And isolating valves for the day you will need to replace components (take off handles if needed).
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01-23-2013, 12:31 PM #23
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from what i know pigtail is to prevent back pressure or hammering effect to the pressure sensor diaphragm or capacitance sensing materials. check the system working pressure and check the pressure sensor specification, if the working pressure do not exceed burst pressure then it can install without the pigtail. if you want to avoid the copper piping loss or installation difficulties, http://www.setra.com/ProductDetails/...231RS_HVAC.htm you can try this differential pressure transmitter with remote sensor. so just install each pressure sensor on supply/return pipe and connect the wire back to the transmitter will have differential output.


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