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  1. #1

    Confused Amana Heat Pump Groaning at Startup

    I have a AVPTC31371 indoor in the attic of my 2 story house connected to a asx140241 outdoor heatpump condensor. When the temp drops below approx 32 degrees the unit groans and vibrates the house for the first 5 to 10 seconds when it starts. It then quiets down and runs normal. Doesn't seem to do it when the temp is 35 degrees and higher.

    I have anther duplicated set on the first floor and both of these were installed in October. The first floor unit is quiet even on start up.

    I am lost and need some advice. The company that installed the system says this is normal.

    It wakes everyone up at night when it comes on....this cannot be "normal"

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    southeast
    Posts
    83
    I would check to see if there is a crankcase heater and if its working. The refrigerant should also be checked. Sounds like what is called flooded starting. If there is a long line set there may need to be a liquid line shut off valve to help control the refrigerant on the off cycle.

  3. #3

    Groaning at startup

    Quote Originally Posted by coolinman View Post
    I would check to see if there is a crankcase heater and if its working. The refrigerant should also be checked. Sounds like what is called flooded starting. If there is a long line set there may need to be a liquid line shut off valve to help control the refrigerant on the off cycle.
    Product Features

    •High-efficiency scroll compressor
    •R-410A chlorine-free refrigerant
    •SmartShift™ technology to ensure quiet, reliable defrost
    •Factory-installed suction line accumulator
    •Factory-installed compressor crankcase heater
    •Factory-installed filter drier
    •High-density foam compressor sound blanket
    •Amana brand sound control top for quiet operation
    •Long-lasting Amana brand quality and durability
    •AHRI certified; ETL listed

    It states in the features "factory installed Crankcase Heater"

    How would I know if it is working or not?

    Thanks

  4. #4

    Line Shut Off Valve

    Quote Originally Posted by coolinman View Post
    I would check to see if there is a crankcase heater and if its working. The refrigerant should also be checked. Sounds like what is called flooded starting. If there is a long line set there may need to be a liquid line shut off valve to help control the refrigerant on the off cycle.
    Would a liquid line shutoff valve work on a heat pump. Doesn't the refrigerant have to travel both ways in a heat pump? Not sure but wanted to know before I inquired about having one installed?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,048
    Quote Originally Posted by lynnpt2001 View Post
    Would a liquid line shutoff valve work on a heat pump. Doesn't the refrigerant have to travel both ways in a heat pump? Not sure but wanted to know before I inquired about having one installed?
    Yes you are correct you will need a special biflow valve installed. Does your indoor unit have a txv?

    The biflow valves cannot shut tight in the reverse flow direction.

    So make sure valve is installed with reverse flow is cooling. They can also make some strange noises for a min or two after shut down. The noise goes away if there is a hard shut off txv on indoor coil.

    An easier upgrade may be hard shutoff txv installed in outdoor unit.

  6. #6

    txv valves

    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post
    Yes you are correct you will need a special biflow valve installed. Does your indoor unit have a txv?

    The biflow valves cannot shut tight in the reverse flow direction.

    So make sure valve is installed with reverse flow is cooling. They can also make some strange noises for a min or two after shut down. The noise goes away if there is a hard shut off txv on indoor coil.

    An easier upgrade may be hard shutoff txv installed in outdoor unit.
    I checked specs on the indoor unit and it does have a thermal expansion valve. The noise is definitely upon startup of the condenser it vibrates ingrowns for about 10 seconds and then quiets down

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    southeast
    Posts
    83
    The easy way to check is with the outdoor unit not running check for current flow on the high voltage supplying the unit. This is not fool proof there may be a thermostat to turn it off when not need to improve the efficency. You should be able to trace it out on the wiring diagram if you need to. The heater probably operates at around 50-60 watts so thats about .25 amps at 240 VAC. The reason its there is because the manufacture knows its needed and would cause problems at low ambient operation without it. If there is no current the heater and thermostat can be checked with a electrical meter.
    Good Luck !

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,048
    You can try the solonoid to see if it helps. It cant hurt. Have it installed as I posted for proper operation.

  9. #9

    More Info

    Here is what I have determined. If the unit shuts off and is only off for 10 or 15 minutes, it will make the noise on start up. If it can sit longer in off mode it will start quietly. Another AC guy told me he believes that there is a valve shutting and not allowing the pressures to equalize, but when the unit is off longer it has time to do so. Not sure what this means but it follows this pattern. If I can keep the compressor off for a longer period it is quiet when it starts. What I have noticed is when it is cold outside the thermostat will come on in 10-15 minutes after shutting off. I talked with Honeywell, they said the thermostat will switch on when the temp drops 1 degree from the set temp and there is no changing this. Seems like it would make a unit run short cycles if this is the way is works. Any input?

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