Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 27 to 39 of 41

Thread: Goodman Furnace

  1. #27
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Salt Lake City/Tooele
    Posts
    2,761
    Like to the the OP for returning to let us all know the final outcome. Thanks evilsanta.
    So many of these head scratching posts just end up with no resolution.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    31
    Thanks OP for posting the fix. I had a furnace with a similar problem last week. It was dropping in and out intermittently, so another tech replaced the door switch. A week later I'm sent out on a follow up, talk to the homeowner she says it didn't work earlier today, but now it's working again. I check for codes don't see any, so I tape the switch everything works fine, put the door back on, here comes the problems again. I check the switch it's fine. I finally figure out that the r stat wire wasn't tightly screwed down, and whenever the door was put back on it would push the wire just enough so that it would intermittently lose contact.

  3. #29
    wiring harness

  4. #30
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    northern kentucky
    Posts
    143
    I had one years ago that I suspected had a bad pressure switch. After replacing it, and problem did not go away found a wasp nest in the flue pipe. Did I feel stupid over that. However I will never forget it. Now I stay away from residentual work, you guys can have it. Good luck and God Bless

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    1,090
    You have to let the inducer run for a sec before you jump it. Glad you got it

  6. #32
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,589
    A good lesson to learn is 90% of the time you get a pressure switch code it's not the switch. Maybe not 90 but close.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    between here and over there
    Posts
    453
    It very well could be that the board is bad, however I have seen something similar to this. It is possible that there could be a low voltage short or a loose connection either on the board or in the wiring that wouldn't cause a fuse to trip, but to cycle like this.

    Last summer I observed a short in a contactor coil. When the Thermostat (Honeywell 5000) would come out of its time delay and energize (Y) causing the short, the thermostat would flicker then cycle back into its time delay and never trip the low voltage fuse. I observed this happening about 4 or 5 times in a row. I ohmed the contactor out, found it shorted to ground, change the contactor, and everything was fine, we haven't been back since.

    I would at lease make sure all your connections where good. and no nicks in the wiring. Just a thought.

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    between here and over there
    Posts
    453
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    A good lesson to learn is 90% of the time you get a pressure switch code it's not the switch. Maybe not 90 but close.
    True story. I should hit refresh ever so often.. maybe I would have seen the end result.

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    west burb IL
    Posts
    95
    A lot of good troubleshooting info here. You guys do good work.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    3,653
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    A good lesson to learn is 90% of the time you get a pressure switch code it's not the switch. Maybe not 90 but close.
    I'm starting to think this might not be as true as it used to be, perhaps due to the increased presence of 90%ers and the water fouling contacts? Have to ask our neighbors to the north...

    I've already caught a couple more this year over last on 80%ers.

    Or maybe just like everything else...someone found a cheaper way to make junk.

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    EXIT 16W www.wmtandson.com
    Posts
    3,813
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    A good lesson to learn is 90% of the time you get a pressure switch code it's not the switch. Maybe not 90 but close.
    I finished up a class last week with Johnstone on MODULES
    Class was told that 99% of switch sent back tested A-OK
    DON"T mess with the US
    I thought I had been there and done That.
    ITS ALL ABOUT LEARNIN!
    I thought it would be better by now
    "He who works with his hands is a laborer.
    He who works with his hands & his head is a craftsman.
    He who works with his hands, his head & his heart is an artist."
    ~St. Francis of Assisi

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    EXIT 16W www.wmtandson.com
    Posts
    3,813
    I,m wondering why the inducer does not continue to run even thou the pressure switch fails to close.
    Seems to me its safer to have it run than stop,the board should then keep the ignighter from lighting,.
    That would definetly make you look at pressure switch and igniter FIRST

    Watching the Video Made me think like others that it was Power Related
    DON"T mess with the US
    I thought I had been there and done That.
    ITS ALL ABOUT LEARNIN!
    I thought it would be better by now
    "He who works with his hands is a laborer.
    He who works with his hands & his head is a craftsman.
    He who works with his hands, his head & his heart is an artist."
    ~St. Francis of Assisi

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    3,653
    Quote Originally Posted by epacertified View Post
    I,m wondering why the inducer does not continue to run even thou the pressure switch fails to close.
    Seems to me its safer to have it run than stop,the board should then keep the ignighter from lighting,.
    That would definetly make you look at pressure switch and igniter FIRST

    Watching the Video Made me think like others that it was Power Related
    I agree. When P/S's fail to close the inducer keeps running till the board shuts it down and throws an error - takes a full minute and change on most furnaces. I'm assuming the pressure switch closed and then quickly reopened - prompting an immediate shut down. But this should not be. The blower and inducer should continue to run if the P/S breaks in the middle of a cycle. In fact, is it not even more imperative that they continue run if a safety opens in the middle of a cycle as opposed to the very beginning of a cycle? Matter of fact, the P/S is on the gas valve circuit along with the limits, rollouts etc and should have nothing to do with the inducer...

    Dammit! I've second guessed myself back to the board and 1. it's not even my job & 2. the issue has apparently been resolved!

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event