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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Freezeking2000 View Post
    I do believe your natural gas price is not correct.
    You're right Brian. I was using the back button to snap the pics. I went through the process again and the result is still the same, a recommendation of 0F as the cut over from HP to LP. Here's the shot showing what I entered as my cost, just under $3/gallon for LP.


  2. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    Standing in front of the system, if you reach your hand in between the return duct and the furnace and touch the back corner of the vertical return duct, do you feel a flange (about 1/4") sticking up/out? This needs to be hammered over, it looks as if it may not be. Not a good pic of that area.
    Yes, there is a flange there that sticks out about 1/4" that runs up about 10". I'll be sure to point that out to them as well.

    The pic that shows the house from a distance. What is that large round cement object that looks like it protrudes through the deck? A barbecue?
    That is a pier I poured for my telescope for taking long exposure pictures of objects in the night sky. That was a lot of work pouring myself!

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Very cool telescope.

    Yes that flange needs to be corrected asap.

    If you develop a list of what is said on here that should be corrected, then present that to the contractor you will have things repaired. This site is the #1 site for technical excellence. Many many members are very knowledgeable
    Always here

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Savannah, Ga/H.H. Island, S.C.
    Posts
    1,500
    Quote Originally Posted by Freezeking2000 View Post
    He stated he was getting the non communicating system. This is what you purchased.

    I do believe your natural gas price is not correct.

    Brian
    He said he was mislead. The sales rep told him that part of the system would still be communicating. We, as contractors, know that this is not a possibility but to a homeowner this sounds plausible.

    Not to mention, installing a non-communicating XL20i is like getting a high end sports car with an automatic transmission. You're castrating the system. You're taking away all the benefits of having a very efficient "true" two stage system.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NC Sandhills
    Posts
    409
    1 return for a 4 Ton XL20i? I know the size is 25x25 but do you know what size flex is tied into it? I am assuming that black flex in 1st picture tied into top of return ductwork connects grille to duct. Or is it ducted metal all the way to return grille?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
    Posts
    4,592
    Thats better

    Quote Originally Posted by pclausen View Post
    You're right Brian. I was using the back button to snap the pics. I went through the process again and the result is still the same, a recommendation of 0F as the cut over from HP to LP. Here's the shot showing what I entered as my cost, just under $3/gallon for LP.

    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney28334 View Post
    1 return for a 4 Ton XL20i? I know the size is 25x25 but do you know what size flex is tied into it? I am assuming that black flex in 1st picture tied into top of return ductwork connects grille to duct. Or is it ducted metal all the way to return grille?
    It is ducted metal all the way to the return grille. Look at the pic below. The blue represents the return and the blue with the yellow surround is the 24x24 return opening itself laid flat for illustration. I would say the smallest opening between the 24x24 return filter and the furnace entry is about 25x13 give or take.

    The red is the supply. There is basically a single main ducted artery if you will, that starts out as 20x10, then goes to 15x10 and finally 10x8 at the ends. The ducts that connect the the supply vents are all solid round 6" diameter ones except for the pantry and half bath to the far right, which is connected via flex 6" duct.



    The black flex you see is part of the connection to my ERV. Here's a shot from below the ERV showing it's connections for the furnace return.



    I used to have the ERV hooked up to turn on with the furnace blower motor and kept its speed at a medium setting using the dial shown here. With my new variable speed furnace, I'm wondering if there is a better way to connect this unit?


  8. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    43
    It got a call this afternoon from the company (I was driving and forget what his title was, but someone at the manager/owner level). He apologized about the job and wanted me to be completely satisfied. Part of the problem, he said, was that their quality assurance guy hadn't been out to inspect the work yet, and that he would have found most of the things you guys already pointed out and corrected them.

    Also, they have ordered the XC95m TUHMC100ACV4VA for me, and will be swapping it out when it arrives and then redo everything to be fully communicating. The only cost to me is the price delta between the XV95 and the XC95m. They will also credit me back the relay panel since I won't need it.

    So they are going to make it right for me!

    As far as the tape across the access panel to the coil, he said that they like to always tape this up to prevent the 1-2% of pressure loss that would otherwise occur. Since there is a lot of positive pressure here, I would tend to agree that would be the case, no?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Freezeking2000 View Post
    Thats better
    Yes, but the calculation still comes out to that I should have my switch over occur at 0F, instead of the 40F or so I would expect it to recommend.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Savannah, Ga/H.H. Island, S.C.
    Posts
    1,500
    That's great news. Your contractor is doing the right thing. You really couldn't ask for a better outcome.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NC Sandhills
    Posts
    409
    Good for them to step up, and for you to keep on them. I am sure the QC guy will pick up on it but make sure they install a overflow/float switch on evaporator pan secondary drain, or lower at bottom of furnace so if drain clogs it will not overflow into furnace condensing drain. Also I would suggest he run combustion air intake outside, even though that basement is "unconditioned", and make sure they dont run it verticaly like the exhaust as it will make coil servicing a pita. They should be able to run it out the side of the furnace. Last thing and I will stop nitpicking, the family/living room has alot of glazing. If you havnt had any comfort issues before I may be wasting time, but adding a return in that area may be a great benefit even if it requires a little extra money, maybe you could get a return under the staircase facing room. By the way, Nice schematic and congrats on a great system.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,051
    Return still a little shy for the cfm requirement of the 4 ton also that 100k 95%er in full high speed.

    The return grille could be larger and please remove that filtrete filter!

    What's are the other pros opinion on the return being single side entry on 1400-1600?

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    1,090
    Please post pics of the job after it is fixed.
    I am Glad it's working out for ya

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