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 Originally Posted by Freezeking2000
I do believe your natural gas price is not correct.
You're right Brian. I was using the back button to snap the pics. I went through the process again and the result is still the same, a recommendation of 0F as the cut over from HP to LP. Here's the shot showing what I entered as my cost, just under $3/gallon for LP.
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 Originally Posted by energy star
Standing in front of the system, if you reach your hand in between the return duct and the furnace and touch the back corner of the vertical return duct, do you feel a flange (about 1/4") sticking up/out? This needs to be hammered over, it looks as if it may not be. Not a good pic of that area.
Yes, there is a flange there that sticks out about 1/4" that runs up about 10". I'll be sure to point that out to them as well.
The pic that shows the house from a distance. What is that large round cement object that looks like it protrudes through the deck? A barbecue?
That is a pier I poured for my telescope for taking long exposure pictures of objects in the night sky. That was a lot of work pouring myself!
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Very cool telescope.
Yes that flange needs to be corrected asap.
If you develop a list of what is said on here that should be corrected, then present that to the contractor you will have things repaired. This site is the #1 site for technical excellence. Many many members are very knowledgeable
Always here
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 Originally Posted by Freezeking2000
He stated he was getting the non communicating system. This is what you purchased.
I do believe your natural gas price is not correct.
Brian
He said he was mislead. The sales rep told him that part of the system would still be communicating. We, as contractors, know that this is not a possibility but to a homeowner this sounds plausible.
Not to mention, installing a non-communicating XL20i is like getting a high end sports car with an automatic transmission. You're castrating the system. You're taking away all the benefits of having a very efficient "true" two stage system.
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1 return for a 4 Ton XL20i? I know the size is 25x25 but do you know what size flex is tied into it? I am assuming that black flex in 1st picture tied into top of return ductwork connects grille to duct. Or is it ducted metal all the way to return grille?
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Thats better
 Originally Posted by pclausen
You're right Brian. I was using the back button to snap the pics. I went through the process again and the result is still the same, a recommendation of 0F as the cut over from HP to LP. Here's the shot showing what I entered as my cost, just under $3/gallon for LP.

Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced
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It got a call this afternoon from the company (I was driving and forget what his title was, but someone at the manager/owner level). He apologized about the job and wanted me to be completely satisfied. Part of the problem, he said, was that their quality assurance guy hadn't been out to inspect the work yet, and that he would have found most of the things you guys already pointed out and corrected them.
Also, they have ordered the XC95m TUHMC100ACV4VA for me, and will be swapping it out when it arrives and then redo everything to be fully communicating. The only cost to me is the price delta between the XV95 and the XC95m. They will also credit me back the relay panel since I won't need it.
So they are going to make it right for me!
As far as the tape across the access panel to the coil, he said that they like to always tape this up to prevent the 1-2% of pressure loss that would otherwise occur. Since there is a lot of positive pressure here, I would tend to agree that would be the case, no?
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 Originally Posted by Freezeking2000
Thats better
Yes, but the calculation still comes out to that I should have my switch over occur at 0F, instead of the 40F or so I would expect it to recommend.
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That's great news. Your contractor is doing the right thing. You really couldn't ask for a better outcome.
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Good for them to step up, and for you to keep on them. I am sure the QC guy will pick up on it but make sure they install a overflow/float switch on evaporator pan secondary drain, or lower at bottom of furnace so if drain clogs it will not overflow into furnace condensing drain. Also I would suggest he run combustion air intake outside, even though that basement is "unconditioned", and make sure they dont run it verticaly like the exhaust as it will make coil servicing a pita. They should be able to run it out the side of the furnace. Last thing and I will stop nitpicking, the family/living room has alot of glazing. If you havnt had any comfort issues before I may be wasting time, but adding a return in that area may be a great benefit even if it requires a little extra money, maybe you could get a return under the staircase facing room. By the way, Nice schematic and congrats on a great system.
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Return still a little shy for the cfm requirement of the 4 ton also that 100k 95%er in full high speed.
The return grille could be larger and please remove that filtrete filter!
What's are the other pros opinion on the return being single side entry on 1400-1600?
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Please post pics of the job after it is fixed.
I am Glad it's working out for ya
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