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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,564
    Also, stainless heats up at a quicker rate than copper and is easy to burn thru.
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Kansas City, Kansas, United States
    Posts
    13,832
    Oh
    There is no silver in 95/5
    95% tin
    5% antimony

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    427
    If you do not know what to use, you likely don't know stainless soldering takes a different approach. Here is some help.

    45% silver solder or better with white or brown flux to start but always point your flame at the copper allowing the ss to only get near the flame. once the solder melts onto the copper, move some heat onto the ss. And don't burn the stainless. It'll get black. Once you do, you will need to wash off your joint with cold water and do it again. Be sure your ss is clean to start with. Unlike sil-fas, you need to clean the copper & stainless with emory. Wash off harden flux with cold water and rag while the joint is still hot. Good luck.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,285
    JB weld

    LOL
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Capz View Post
    If you do not know what to use, you likely don't know stainless soldering takes a different approach. Here is some help.

    45% silver solder or better with white or brown flux to start but always point your flame at the copper allowing the ss to only get near the flame. once the solder melts onto the copper, move some heat onto the ss. And don't burn the stainless. It'll get black. Once you do, you will need to wash off your joint with cold water and do it again. Be sure your ss is clean to start with. Unlike sil-fas, you need to clean the copper & stainless with emory. Wash off harden flux with cold water and rag while the joint is still hot. Good luck.
    Ok thanks for the tips.

    Also, didn't know brazing rods were sold individually. I'm small time (just personal and school design projects), so I've been able to just pick up the half used rods left behind by the likes of you guys at the ice rinks I work at. I'll see what airgas has when I go to get nitro tomorrow.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    6,715
    I've used the blue coated rod for stainless to copper and it works good, a little cheaper than the orange.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by twophase View Post
    Ok thanks for the tips.

    half used rods left behind by the likes of you guys at the ice rinks I work at. I'll see what airgas has when I go to get nitro tomorrow.
    Those half rods are sil fas rods likely 6% silver. May not work with copper to ss.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Capz View Post
    Those half rods are sil fas rods likely 6% silver. May not work with copper to ss.
    Yeah, mostly Dynaflow, but a few 15% sil-phos. I have found 4" of the blue rod. I just clamp them into some vise grips pliers and use 'em the rest of the way up. 1/4" joints don't need much.

    But I picked up some of the safety-silv 56 orange rods and white flux, so it should be good. $40 for a pack of 3...could be worse. I was a little surprised 20 cu ft of nitrogen cost $20. Maybe it's gone up.

    Thanks for the help, guys.

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