Regular Guest
Here is my dilemma. I have a 5kw electric heater that I was given. I mounted it and put a double pole line voltage thermostat (Cadet T410B) in line. the problem I am having is the Fan of the unit (which is 110v) runs all the time when the thermostat is in the on position regardless of temperature selected. The heating element is operating fine and only kicks on when it reaches the set temp. I have tried putting the fan power feed wire to the control side and it still runs all the time. I am assuming that it is getting power feed back. If this was a 12v system I would just put an appropriate diode in the system but with AC current I cannot do that. Does anyone have any ideas?
The L2/T2 leads are on anytime the thermostat is in the on position and only breaks when turned to the off position, the L1/T1 leads are thermostatically controlled. if this unit had a 220v motor I would not have any issues but since it has a 110v motor and one side always has power the fan spins. I need either a t-stat that controls both sides (which I cannot seem to find) or some kind of switching device. I am at a loss
Member
I don't think your 220 volt fan would run to long on 120 volts so you might not have to worry about it if that is really the issue of which I doubt because in order to actually run the fan would have to have a complete circuit. If I am wrong feel free to critique, we are not allowed to give specifics on DIY or "garage" mechanics.
Professional Member*
The limitations that you are running into might be part of the reason you were given the unit. Have any friends that are qualified electricians or HVAC control techs? What your looking for is going to end up being DIY info that site rules don't allow.
Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
Regular Guest
The unit has a 120v fan not a 220v fan, I wish it had a 220v fan then I would not have this issue.Originally Posted by toocoolforschool
Regular Guest
I wish I had friends that were in the HVAC field, then I could find a thermostat that controls both sides of the unit. I do not know any electricians either.
Regular Guest
Why do the site rules not allow advice? isn't that the purpose of a forum? all I need is someone to tell me where to get a true dual control thermostat
Professional Member
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread....NO-DIY-Why-NOT
What you need isn't someone to tell you how to get a thermostat, what you need is someone to tell you how to fix the mistake that you made.
Not a tough thing if it is the same mistake I made when I wired up my first electric radiant system, but it's a bugger if you don't know what is happening.
Professional Member*
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Regular Guest
Actually what I need is someone to point me in the direction of a thermostat or control board that will control both sides of the heater, I do not understand why you think I made a mistake? because I have not. I know exactly what is happening and why, if you read my first post you would have hopefully understood it.
The problem is that the 220v heater has a 110v fan in it so the fan always spins (because only one side is controlled thermostatically and the other has voltage anytime the T-stat is on) . I need a way to block/control the voltage to both sides of the the heater. I cannot install a rectifier or Diode because that would change the AC current to DC.
All I want is product recommendations. such hey did you look into this or that.
Professional Member*
Honestly I'm not a big fan of electric resistance heaters unless you're an industrial plant with low electric rates or make your own power. Too large a load and too expensive to operate. Do you have natural gas?
Regular Guest
Yes I do, and I have a heater but the gas line is not ran to the garage and the house is currently a rental and we are in the process of trying to buy it but the land lord is undecided about selling it. If it were my house I would run the gas line because I already have the 1" yellow line and risers but the landlord wont let me run it. I want to keep the garage warm because I keep my dogs out there also do a lot of work out there. I was a 20 year Master Auto tech before switching to IT 2 years ago and do a lot of side work. What really kills me is I got the gas line from my father, he was a self employed HVAC contractor but passed away and now I have no one to rely on to guide me.
Member
Yes, my bad I thought it was 220v. Anyways I don't think modernizing your landlords house is in your best interest especially if you are not a hvac contractor unless of course you are clairvoyant. All you have to do is call a tech out and spend some money to get it done right. Good luck.
Professional Member*
Let me see if I can explain why you're getting the responses you're getting and not what you're looking for.
First of all all electric heaters are not designed and controlled the same. So, with out us knowing exactly what brand and model you have so that we can look up the electrical/control schematic for it we can't (wouldn't) even guess as to the correct type of control to do what you want done. Simple stating, what you have told us gives no one with the knowledge and any amount of experience any way of knowing how to help in a way that won't potentially put you in harms way and/or violate the site rules. If it makes any difference, if I was fielding a phone call from a tech in the field and they gave me the information you supplied I'd be telling them the same thing. I'd be using different words.... but that's just me.
So, with that said, if you were to supply a model and serial number for the unit the rules "might" allow for further help in the way of possibly suggesting a control.
As a side note: Please do not attempt to install the underground gas line components you have. All of the manufacturer's require specific training in the installation of these products due to the very real potential for deadly consequences if not done correctly. The installation also requires specialized tools.
Gas that escapes from a line buried underground is many times more dangerous that from a leak above ground. #1 is the dirt will filter out the odorant/smell that is purposely added to gas so you can smell a leak and be warned of the danger. #2 a leak underground can move horizontally for a long distance and then show up ...... in your home through a crack in the foundation, in the garage through a crack in the floor, in your neighbors yard or house and without the odorant with the first indication a lot of times being a loud explosion followed most times by news film on TV.
Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
Regular Guest
I don't have the serial on me (I am at work) but it is a federal pacific...really old too. I posted pics of it on the garage journal
Removed forum link to DIY page
Last edited by jpsmith1cm; 12-20-2012 at 09:35 PM.
Professional Member*
The internal wiring is incorrect. The feed from the breaker panel is Very Dangerous. Shut it down and hire a professional before you burn your garage down.
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Member
Whats with the blue track pipe, is he using that for conduit?
Is the fan hooked to nuetral?
Regular Guest
Yes the Blue conduit is used to sheath the wires. Everything is how the landlord had it hooked up at his house before he switched to a different unit and gave this to me..one end of the 120v fan is hooked to neutral the other is currently disconnected. but it was hooked in with the red lead
Member
Time to give up the ghost.
Professional Member*
It's smurf tube, a plastic flexible conduit.
Member
Okay thanks, smurf tube, I like it.
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