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Thread: sequencer
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12-15-2012, 06:13 PM #14
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lol was neither & trust me bud have meter & know how to use it. Also what the sequencer was doing. replaced with contactor. insulation looked fine but may have blown up when the blower came on concentrating heat on wall behind sequencer thought of that after the fact. So gotta go back to check. Wasnt so much stuck because when i took the door off & cool air entered the sequencer would open up!
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12-15-2012, 06:20 PM #15
how many coils are on the seq. ?i woulld think bimetal is just getting week
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12-15-2012, 06:22 PM #16
let me clarify how many heating coils is it controling?
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12-15-2012, 06:39 PM #17
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12-15-2012, 08:01 PM #18
i would have to guess a temp. issue if both terminals are staying closed and the replacement did the same thing why its to hot is another issue do amp amp draws on the wires that would be my humble
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12-15-2012, 08:23 PM #19
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I don't like sequencers, but the manufacturers use them for price I guess. I almost always replace with contactors.
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12-15-2012, 08:44 PM #20
I wonder what the surface temperature was at the location where the sequencer was mounted? Also at what temperature does the sequencer contacts close..... This calls for an all out investigation using the scientific method.
Question: What is causing Sequencers contacts to be closed and allowing completion of circuit to heating elements
Hypothesis: Excessive heat from cabinet is transferring, in the form of conduction, directly to the bi-metal of sequencer thus causing contacts to close
Prediction: Heating the mounting base of the sequencer shall ,at certain temperature, close contacts allowing conduction of electricity to flow through contacts
Testing: Take the sequence at fault and clamp temperature probe to base of it, place multimeter leads across M1 and M2 and set meter on the ohms scale, preferably audible scale, then proceed to heat the base of sequencer with external heat source and record at what temperature the contacts close. Record your analysis and repeat test 3 more times. Also conduct this test on new sequencer out of package. Then with furnace running measure the surface temperature where the sequencer mounts in cabinet and record your readings via#2 pencil.
Data: place your analysis here:
Conclusion: State your final conclusions here and present graphs and table charts to confirm your findings.
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12-15-2012, 08:52 PM #21
manufacturers use them to save the homeowner on energy bills. Starting tomany components at once can raise your price on kwhs for the rest of the month and anyways if its so hot the seq. wont open its not a very efficent system wouldnt you say?
Last edited by Core_d; 12-15-2012 at 08:59 PM. Reason: spelling
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12-19-2012, 09:16 PM #22
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12-24-2012, 11:29 AM #23
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12-24-2012, 11:39 AM #24
I know this is an old tread but, are you telling me when a seq. is being closed by ambient heat replacing it with a contactor and being done with it in no way affects the customers energy bills compared to determining the actual fault and fixing it. Peak pricing was not the only effiency issue in this situation
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12-24-2012, 11:47 AM #25
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Depends on your plan. Plan very GREATLY, be sure to look your up. In our area consumers can pick from 3 summer plans. Standard, TOU, and VPP. Everybody is on standard during winter months so heat sequencing doesn't matter to power bills. Smarthours is the plan that our utility is pushing right now.
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12-24-2012, 11:53 AM #26
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The ideal solution is to use a thermostat with multistage capabilities that would only bring on the extra banks of heat strips as needed. The 1st 10KW could be brought on by one contactor through W1, the 2nd 10KW contactor brought on by W2.
If a multistage thermostat isn't practical time delays or outdoor thermostats could be used to control when the 2nd bank of heat is activated.
Another strategy with heat pumps involves setting up one 10KW bank of heat connected to W1 of the thermostat and the other 10KW bank being activated by the defrost board of the heat pump. If the heat pump can't keep up the thermostat will call for 10KW heat, when the heat pump goes into defrost the other 10KW will come on. Once the heat pump catches up electric heat is dropped. A simple wiring change achieves this, no additional parts required.



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