Goodman heat pump - blower motor run capacitor failed twice, what's wrong? - Page 2
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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by hvacvegas View Post
    You posted a 3 ton air handler, and you said you have a 3.5 ton outdoor.
    Not good, but unrelated.
    Oops, good catch. It's a 3 ton unit all around.

    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    I think he was calling his air handler a heat pump.
    I didn't mean to, while I'm not a pro by a long shot I do know the air handler is the inside portion. I refer to my entire system as a "heat pump".

    Quote Originally Posted by jtrammel
    The heat strips will come on during normal use if the heat pump can't maintain temp and during defrost. The electric heat wire probably burned due to them being on when the motor stopped blowing air over them so the overheated. It should have opened the high temp limit safety though.
    That's not good. Is there any way I can test those sensors? They are the round black fittings with yellow stickers that are mounted inline with the heat strips wiring, right? I assume I measure across for continuity, but I guess I don't understand how the limit switch would protect the wire from overloading & melting like it did, like a fuse or breaker could. Isn't the function different?

    Quote Originally Posted by fliks
    Looks to me like loose connections at breaker. Breaker protects the loads downstream, the connections that got hot were upstream of the breaker.
    The connection that melted was the push-on at one of the heat strips. It's literally burned through the wire. Does that mean anything?

    Thanks for all the info guys, I really appreciate it.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by Jessie james View Post

    I am also not thrilled that the emergency heat has been in use, because that just means a bigger bill for me. I'd rather use my portable oil-filled radiators if needed...
    Jessie,

    Just so you know. Your portable oil filled units are 115 volt. The electric strips on your air handler are 230 volt. To produce the same amount of btu output from your portable units you will consume twice the KW at the electric meter. With that being said. I concure that we would rather see more btu's introduced from high HSPF heat pumps and wider differential settings on thermostats than run on electric back up heat.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,699
    Quote Originally Posted by westval View Post
    Jessie,

    Just so you know. Your portable oil filled units are 115 volt. The electric strips on your air handler are 230 volt. To produce the same amount of btu output from your portable units you will consume twice the KW at the electric meter. With that being said. I concure that we would rather see more btu's introduced from high HSPF heat pumps and wider differential settings on thermostats than run on electric back up heat.
    The amps will be twice as much, but the KW will be the same.
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  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,648
    Most of the time the reason a wire burns off is because of a loose connection or wire undersized. I see wires burned off at strips often do too loose connection.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    The amps will be twice as much, but the KW will be the same.
    Of course you are correct. I misspoke. I was trying to convey the idea that a lot of portable heaters would be needed to replace the electric heat kit, and I did a poor job of that. Sorry to the OP for bad information!

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by fliks View Post
    Most of the time the reason a wire burns off is because of a loose connection or wire undersized. I see wires burned off at strips often do too loose connection.
    Ok, that is reassuring. The tech replaced the wire with a wire that feels like it's 1 gauge heavier, so I guess it's fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by westval View Post
    Of course you are correct. I misspoke. I was trying to convey the idea that a lot of portable heaters would be needed to replace the electric heat kit, and I did a poor job of that. Sorry to the OP for bad information!
    Thanks for the corrected info! Since my new blower motor is somewhere with UPS until Tuesday I will have to suffer a big bill in the meanwhile. I have a wife so ... haha!

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mount Holly, NC
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    3,003
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    The amps will be twice as much, but the KW will be the same.
    keep in mind that a few 115v "oil filled heaters" will result in an imbalanced load on the meter, causing a higher power bill than a balanced load from the 240v electric strips will.

    in the old days, each strip would have it's own fuse, and it would blow if there was too much current draw. now the entire heat strip set will be on a single breaker sized for the load, and if a single wire gets too much current, it fails. it's all in a metal box, and it's designed to fail and stay inside the box preventing a fire.
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  8. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15
    Ok, fun new problem. I ordered a new motor. The technician who was at my home advised me that to motor in my system was improperly sized, at 1/3 HP, and should have been a 1/2 HP. I installed the new motor, and it worked fine for about a day, and then on the next start it sounds horrible and has a noticeable vibration which you can hear through the entire house, and even see in the video below.

    Please check this video:

    http://youtu.be/7sdlgDdrqPw

    The mounting bolts are tight. The cage attachment is firm (shaft does not spin within the cage). The blower housing is attached firmly.

    Is this:

    (A) Defective motor?

    (B) Defective installation?

    (C) None of the above, just a merry Christmas gift to my sick 5 month old son.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Savannah, Ga/H.H. Island, S.C.
    Posts
    1,400
    My guess would be (B) Installation problem.

    It's time to throw in the towel. You've attempted to install it yourself and it didn't work..so call a professional. No DIY advice.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15
    Ugh. Merry Christmas to me. I can't afford this right now. I want to throw this whole system away! Haha.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    1,439
    Jessie,

    I'm sorry to pour salt on your wounds but honestly if you had paid the tech to replace the fan motor the system would have been repaired days ago, you would not have had to worry about your wife and child being cold, and the faulty blower would be on them and not you.

    My suggestion is that you call the previous service tech and explain everything to him, be honest, be humble, and ask him for help. If money is an issue, which it is for most of us, then ask him to set up a payment plan. Offer to sign a contract for the repairs. You have options and it's best to let someone experienced handle it, and that protects your interest as well.

    If the previous tech does not want to help then look on our AOP contractors map to contact someone from the forum in your area and ask for their help. Just remember you will always catch more flies with honey than with vinegar.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    3,421
    Ditto on Jblack's post. Call a pro, and bite the bullet. Did ANYONE check the RPMs on old motor?? I'm assuming you got new motor over internet? They have a special "warranty" on them motors I'm sure........

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,573
    Quote Originally Posted by vstech View Post
    keep in mind that a few 115v "oil filled heaters" will result in an imbalanced load on the meter, causing a higher power bill than a balanced load from the 240v electric strips will.

    in the old days, each strip would have it's own fuse, and it would blow if there was too much current draw. now the entire heat strip set will be on a single breaker sized for the load, and if a single wire gets too much current, it fails. it's all in a metal box, and it's designed to fail and stay inside the box preventing a fire.
    Good points.
    My name is TooCoolforschool and I am a chronic over charger.

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