Inverter Geothermal Waterfurnace 7 Series
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    1,928

    Inverter Geothermal Waterfurnace 7 Series

    Here is our second installation of a WaterFurnace 7 Series which can modulate its compressor from 20-130% of rated capacity. This system is a 3 ton with desuperheater that is connected to a TPCC32U01 communicating thermostat with energy monitoring and replaced a WaterFurnace Premier 2 unit that had a bad compressor. The unit has a variable speed grundfos flow center that adjusts water flow based on the 12 compressor stages of heating and 12 compressor stages of cooling. The unit is as quiet as a ductless minisplit inside the mechanical room. Up to a 5.3 COP and 41 EER rated at 50% of capacity, even at stage 10 of 12(roughly 80% of capacity) the unit takes 2200 watts to operate the flow center, blower and compressor to heat the 3000 sq foot home this was installed in. We also upgraded the filter to a Honeywell F100 MERV 11 media filter and to help the loop pressure we added a loop expansion tank.



    Let me know what you think or if you have any questions.
    Check out my YouTube channel - http://www.youtube.com/user/skyheating1 We have customer testimonials, product reviews and more!
    Like us on FACEBOOK if you like our advice here!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    580
    Nice!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    East Grand Forks, MN
    Posts
    1,373
    Really Cool!

    I've yet to install one.
    Perhaps 2013.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Savannah, Ga/H.H. Island, S.C.
    Posts
    1,392
    Great job!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Kiel Wi
    Posts
    164
    We have many 7 series installed and they all work great. Paired with Waterfurnace Intellizone 2 is even better! Keep up the good work!
    Dan
    Advanced Custom Geeothermal LLC
    www.advancedcustomgeothermal.com
    "Everyone must believe in something,I believe I'll have another beer!"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    989
    Quote Originally Posted by SkyHeating View Post
    Here is ....any questions.
    T's Sky ! Well spoken !

    Installing the rated Hydro-Temp Corp, AR, VFD and but a simple 4h 3c operation with their common 4zn board controller and regular stats (1h1c or 3h2c hp, - either one works well) the customers enjoy the quietness as the compressor ramps as you indicated.

    2) The expansion tank or Loop-Reservoir tank has those other advantages of necessary 5 to 6ft NPSH on the pumps for maximum efficient operation, I have found, so 'good show' ! I but put those tanks in the joists above for the higher TDH at the pump inlet off a T for "automatic" air purging, never needing a call back .

    3) hot Water generator previously? and a former GT? I hope there are service valves on the HW for vinegar flushes and I hope the system before, was completely found out as to why replaced if under 20 years operation.

    4) Thanks again for the nice vid!
    ... however, much work still needs to be done.
    CLOSED LOOP newer ratings are listed, but in numerical EER's Closed- is posted below OPEN LOOP EER's:

    http://www.energystar.gov/productfin...r=0&lastpage=1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    989
    Quote Originally Posted by SkyHeating View Post
    Here ...

    What's the first year billing, est?

    Is it in zone 5 or 6 ~ What DDays?

    I expect great numbers!
    ... however, much work still needs to be done.
    CLOSED LOOP newer ratings are listed, but in numerical EER's Closed- is posted below OPEN LOOP EER's:

    http://www.energystar.gov/productfin...r=0&lastpage=1

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Altmar, New York, United States
    Posts
    4,096
    test

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arnold mo
    Posts
    3,897
    I have a question. I notice some of the houses you've installed these in are older homes (1940's stated in other post), how do you evaluate the old ductwork to determine if the existing duct work is compatible with the new system, and what test do you perform after the install to ensure that the ductwork is allowing the new system to move the required amount of cfm's? Surely some of those older homes were built before air conditioning was standard in new homes, so the duct had to be sized for heating only.

    I saw no mention of duct work issues in your websites videos, so my first impression is that it is something that just gets ignored.
    An answer without a question is meaningless.
    Information without understanding is useless.
    You can lead a horse to water............
    http://www.mohomeenergyaudits.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    1,928
    Quote Originally Posted by tipsrfine View Post
    I have a question. I notice some of the houses you've installed these in are older homes (1940's stated in other post), how do you evaluate the old ductwork to determine if the existing duct work is compatible with the new system, and what test do you perform after the install to ensure that the ductwork is allowing the new system to move the required amount of cfm's? Surely some of those older homes were built before air conditioning was standard in new homes, so the duct had to be sized for heating only.

    I saw no mention of duct work issues in your websites videos, so my first impression is that it is something that just gets ignored.
    Good question I am glad you brought it up since I don't discuss ductwork a whole lot, we normally just take care of it since customers don't understand it and when its such a small percentage of the job total its easy to tack on otherwise $500 of ductwork can loose you a job as you probably know.

    Honestly we do not do a pretest except for the manual J and then using a ductulator to assume there is enough ductwork to flow the CFM's we need to get the manual J heat loss calculation met.
    For a post test we do a PTCS CheckMe! Heat Pump comissioning where we put in flow plats and ensure that we are flowing a minimum of 350 CFM per ton(required for rebates here) and ideally 400 CFM per ton. If we are not flowing well above 350 CFM per ton we add ductwork and increase the size until we get in the 370 CFM or higher range.
    On new construction we design based on manual D and Manual J which our software computes, all window U/SHGC values, and all Rvalues and types are input as per ACCA Manual J Version 8. Thats the boring stuff so I don't talk as much about it in videos. I actually have been thinking of doing a video showing how we perform our Manual J calculations and duct sizing and flow testing but the only people that would watch it would be other heating contractors lol.

    Let me know if that answers your questions.
    Check out my YouTube channel - http://www.youtube.com/user/skyheating1 We have customer testimonials, product reviews and more!
    Like us on FACEBOOK if you like our advice here!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arnold mo
    Posts
    3,897
    Thanks for the answers. I asked mostly just to "put it out there" about the duct work. Too many contractors and homeowners who just ignore that 800 lb. gorilla in the room. I wish we could get to the point where contractors oohed & ahhed more about the commissioning test numbers than how pretty the install looks. Thanks again.
    An answer without a question is meaningless.
    Information without understanding is useless.
    You can lead a horse to water............
    http://www.mohomeenergyaudits.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    1,928
    Quote Originally Posted by tipsrfine View Post
    Thanks for the answers. I asked mostly just to "put it out there" about the duct work. Too many contractors and homeowners who just ignore that 800 lb. gorilla in the room. I wish we could get to the point where contractors oohed & ahhed more about the commissioning test numbers than how pretty the install looks. Thanks again.
    Yeah thats the same reason why I stay away from mentioning it and just do it. Its amazing how much push back we get when we show a cost of $500 for ductwork repair vs just not saying anything about it, figuring it into the cost and just doing it lol.
    Check out my YouTube channel - http://www.youtube.com/user/skyheating1 We have customer testimonials, product reviews and more!
    Like us on FACEBOOK if you like our advice here!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    1,647
    It looks very nice. I attended that 7 Series training last week and we'll be installing our first one next week.
    It even makes me consider replacing our 10 year old two-stage furnace and heat pump. I don't want to miss out on the 30% federal tax credit.

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