WTF Heat pump confusion again
HO called again said heat pump doing same thing again. I go and check hps ok lps ok. run it in cooling mode and unhook orange reversing valve wire and there is no swoosh. shut it off and try to let pressures equalize to no success. 120 high side 145low side. try to get it to run in ac again and it wont, wont run in either heating mode or cooling mode now. So I am thinking I am a dumb ass. Can anyone help me out.
This is a continuation of an earlier post called Heat pump confusion
By dosen't run do you mean nothing at all or maybe indoor blower or condensing fan etc.
Is it timing out? Can you operate the rv at all? If there is a check vlv it will not equalize. Need more info.
If the unit is using a non bleed TXV, the pressure will not equalized (unless you let them through your manifold) don;t know what not running means.... compressor won't start or the board is holding it off?
when in heat mode the compressor kicks on for a second and kicks back off, cooling mode wont do anything now. Last week we were having the same problem exept it would run in cooling and found it was over charged. Recovered refrigerant and got it down to manufacturer specs and then it would run in heat mode. Now this crap this week was doing same as last week, execpt when in cooling mode this week, when I disconnected the orange 4way valve wire it did not swoosh at all, then would not run after that. I am at a loss and dont know what to tell HO
Oh one other thing no TXV its fixed orifice
Sounds like a reversing valve not swapping over or a possible compressor issue.
My bet would be on the reversing valve. The article below will give you tips on troubleshooting this issue.
Read this article by ACR News.
Does the contactor drop out or does the compressor shut off on overload? Did you overheat the compressor by short cycling it? 145 over 120 should not be an issue to get the compressor to start unless you have bad start components. Your gauges could even be that far out of calibration. What were the pressures in cooling mode before you pulled the reversing valve wire?
" when I disconnected the orange 4way valve wire it did not swoosh at all, then would not run after that" Did you shut off the unit at that point or did it shut off by some other means like safeties?
This is a so called "teachable moment" for many young techs.
Some snicker under their breath when I harp on communication skills, but those skills are KEY when describing a sequence of events for a customer, a service manager, or a bunch of strangers on an HVAC site.
You need to be able to describe all of the steps, actions, observations, and your reactions, IN ORDER, so we can follow the events and your thinking, in order to find what you may have overlooked, and to help you understand what is actually going on.
I want to know things like amp draw on startup. What kind of start components? For those of us who did not read the other thread: model and serial??
Information is everything in diagnostics.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
AOP Forum Rules:
You tap on the valve to make if shift?
Suction is higher than discharge?
Originally Posted by jeffrey43
If it is overamping or opening internal overload, it may have washed the oil out of the compressor from previous overcharge.
Originally Posted by jeffrey43
Originally Posted by timebuilder
Don't tell'em to do that unless your confident they are capable.
Originally Posted by SBKold
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
I agree with timebuilder there is no information to help trouble shoot this problem
Its a GSZ1302416A Goodman Heat Pump I installed on Augest 29th of this year. The HO has been running this thing in heat mode only for the last 2 and a half months. They call last week and say its not working. I go and find that the compressor starts for a quick second then shuts down. I then put it in cooling mode and while its running I remove orange wire from circuit board and 4 way valve disengages so I determine the valve and solenoid are good. I block up the condensor in cooling mode to simulate a 90 degree day it was 58 degrees that day and check the charge I determine its over charged and no I dont remember the values except I had it condensing at 120 degrees and I had a subcooling of about 20 degrees, I removed 1/2 a pound of refrigerant R-410A. It was then condensing at 110 with a subcooling at about 8 degrees I think. I shut the unit off and let the pressures egualize. I turn it to heat mode and it starts right up after time delay. I let it run for 15 min. shut it off and restart it 4 times. It was working good and heating the home good as well.
Then they call today same problem but the outside ambient was at least 15 deg colder. I fire it up in cooling mode again and go to check the 4way valve again pull orange wire and nothing, does not disengage just clicked. I wait 10 min for it to come back on and it wont ???? Now I am feeling really stupid and tell HO have to call tech support. I am going back tomorrow or actually today to see if I can get this damb thing to run. I installed 4 of these this year and all the others are doing fine I have got to be missing something or this thing is just possessed. I am learning that I need to start writting everything down.