Forced hot water boiler no pressure question, Why do i have no water pressure in my b - Page 2
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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    21
    With the water supply valve open all of the way, the Flow Rate on the Water meter reads ".000" I found out that the leak showing up on the meter was from the basement toilet reservoir.

    How hard should I tap it? With the water supply valve open, there is no change in pressure.

    The furnace is currently off and showing 0 psi at 120f.

    When the furnace is turned on, the Taco pump sounds like this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvn1f...ature=youtu.be

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    The expansion tank is this one http://ecomfort.com/fill-trol-110-ex...10-1-3093.html . When I measure the tank it reads at less than 5 psi, when I first checked it - a small amount water came out. Is that normal after 5 years?

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,588
    I didn't watch the video but read enuf to know that you need a good boiler guy, it is common for a water feed to stick shut and also the exp tank can loose pressure, on an annual service they should check all of that. If you keep running it with no pressure you will burn out the pump. There also must be a leak In the system for the pressure to drop.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    I didn't watch the video but read enuf to know that you need a good boiler guy, it is common for a water feed to stick shut and also the exp tank can loose pressure, on an annual service they should check all of that. If you keep running it with no pressure you will burn out the pump. There also must be a leak In the system for the pressure to drop.
    we actually turned everything but the pilot light off yesterday morning

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    i recharged the expansion tank to 12psi, no change in the boiler pressure meter, its still at 0psi. Still no water flow from the supply line either.. im guessing its stuck closed as suggested, i tapped it with a wrench and no change either.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    518
    first off the safty relief must be changed to a 30# the auto fill is actually a pressure reducing valve which constantly maintains pressure to the boiler (though not if supply is off ) they have a screen under a nut on the bottom should be cleaned the reducing valve should be factory set @ 12 # which is 40% of relief which is normal pressure cold / standing. these issues must be addressed the relief valve is for demestic water heater and is not safe !!!!!!!!!!!! firing your boiler dry it could explode expecially with that relief valve

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    Anyone have a clue on how much this might all cost? :-/ I suspect a lot..

  8. #21
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,588
    I didn't realize you had that style fill valve, they aren't to costly, I see them fail a lot. It's hard to guess what other service company's will charge but opening a boiler system can turn into a project depending on how much air you have to purge out. I know about how much I would charge but we aren't allowd to talk about pricing anyways. If this makes no sense most of my screen is cracked so I can't tell exactly how this is going lol.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    I didn't realize you had that style fill valve, they aren't to costly, I see them fail a lot. It's hard to guess what other service company's will charge but opening a boiler system can turn into a project depending on how much air you have to purge out. I know about how much I would charge but we aren't allowd to talk about pricing anyways. If this makes no sense most of my screen is cracked so I can't tell exactly how this is going lol.
    It's okay lol, I've worked on computers for the last 10 years and those are kind of my specialty. I like to work on tips - I know everyone can't afford it.

    It does make sense though about the pricing. From what I can tell though, the parts alone are at a minimum going to run about $, maybe $. Are parts pricing anything you can comment on? Or maybe just a parts list?
    Last edited by beenthere; 12-13-2012 at 05:34 PM. Reason: price range

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,699
    No prices are allowed.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    No prices are allowed.
    Thank you

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    21
    So From what I can tell, about 6 parts need to be replaced. 2 auto-air purgers (I found one that was corroded in the upstairs radiator that had the cap on so tight i had to use pliers to take it off, a No.67), a motor cartridge for the taco, an auto-fill pressure relief valve, a water supply valve, and a pressure relief valve.

    Also, I was informed that the drain faucet at the bottom of the boiler has been leaking for the last 2 years - smalls drops.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,588
    The auto fill and pressure reducing valve are the same, the boiler drain just needs a hose cap, the auto vents can be cleaned and I don't like to change them because I don't leave them open once the air is out. I didn't see all the vid but the pump is bad?

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