I’ve worked on many gas griddles through the years, but only dared to remove ONE griddle top. That was only because I had to replace the entire griddle top under warranty. THAT took three of us.
Otherwise, all of my cleaning/repairs were done where and as the unit sits. Typically, to get under the griddle top, I’d merely pry up and support the front edge of the griddle top to replace failed thermostats or move the burners around for clearance while replacing burner valves.
I’ve torn down many griddles for cleaning, usually because greasy “mountains” built up onto thebacks of the burners – years of accumulated grease spatter (or spatula storage)down into the flu vent. I’ve seen this buildup be so bad as to completely block the flu vents and greatly affect the burner flame characteristics. Again, I did this with the griddle where it sits by removing the flu vent panel(s) for access & removal of the burners through the back. The burners are usually just tied down to their holders with something akin to bailing wire.
If you’re intent in removing the griddle tops, here are some things to consider:
1) A griddle top IS the bulk of the weight of that equipment. Just a 36” tabletop unit can weigh 300lbs or more - depending on the make.
2) If they have thermostats in it, then be sure to have replacement thermostats handy – just in case. They’re very vulnerable to being damaged –especially if they’ve been there awhile.
3) Have TWO menminimum on the job, armed with a cache of various pry bars, wood blocks, etc.
4) With the front cover off, if your first lookover at the unit doesn’t present an answer on how their griddle top is secured to the base, I’d recommend consulting with the manufacturer for their advice. I’ve never considered calling tech support a bad idea.
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