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Evap replacement.
I hung my legs down in the supply duct, was able to get back in there and solder my connections fairly easily. Not a real great install, I cut an access hole in the return duct so I could get to the screws. Home owner supplied the coil.
3hours start to finish, and that included moving a water heater.
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That looks like some cool solder . I like that it melts at a low temp and means you don't have to run nitrogen thru the lines . Also being able to use a plumbers torch sounds great . Is there any down sides to this .
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I have yet to find any. I don't braze very often. Haven't had a leak since we started using liquid flux, with paste flux we had 2 leaks, over the period of 18 years.
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e...y-Brite-8.aspx
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I was curious, only because I have come across three different instances where an installer used sta-brite to solder the TXV. One install in particular, two out of four evaporators had leaking TXV's, were repaired once, and had to go back four months later to fix yet again. I had quite a time of removing all the solder so I could braze it properly. I can understand the reason for using solder for a TXV, as there is less risk of damaging the valve, but I just don't trust it. Perhaps it has to do with the type of flux, like you said.
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I always braze a txv, the small cap tube.
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Seems backwards that you braze a txv but solder the rest.
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I braze the equalizer tube. A lot more contact area on a normal joint than what you get with the little tube.
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