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Thread: Airflow problem in the basement
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12-05-2012, 10:50 AM #14
Thanks for taking the pictures. Those pictures are like going to an art gallery and taking a picture of Mona Lisa's nose. LOL. Reminds me of some of the pictures I took when I started this job. Any chance of getting some non-close ups?
How to define the problem. Hmmm. The better defined, the clearer the solution, right? Can you go deeper than "stuffy in the basement"? Is that the whole and only problem?
You certainly don't want to cure one problem then "oh yeah, I forgot - we have this problem too". Sometimes multiple problems indicate a whole different course of action.
Really the house is a system of systems. If you focus the way you took those pictures, you may find yourself going around in circles throwing money at problems.
You don't list your location in your header, so the advice you get will not be location specific. It's best to step back and get an understanding of the whole house, then drill in on problems. (Ie: sometimes an issue in the basement is caused by a problem in the attic, but if you never leave the basement you'll never figure that out.)
Some places you can find knowledgeable energy auditors, in other you can find energy raters that can help.Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
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12-05-2012, 03:18 PM #15
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Thank you for the pictures. The return air drop looks funky. What is the size of it? What size is the filter?What is the size of the A/C?
I need you to step back and take pictures of the rectangle duct off the plenum. From your earlier thread you sorta indicated that you had seperate ducts going to each area. Hopefully this is so, although probably unlikely if your luck is like mine.
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12-06-2012, 10:48 PM #16
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George2 and all others who responded - thank you! Your expertise is highly appreaciated.
I had an HVAC contractor look over the furnace and the ducts today. He recommends to install a return specifically for the basement, i.e. hook up the duct from the other side of the furnace (there is already a main return hooked up to the other side). So he recommends to install a dedicated return for the basement as well as repositioning ceiling registers - moving them closer to the exterior basement wall. He also suggested fixing one flex duct that connects adjacent bathroom.
He did not perform any tests or measurements, but said that according to his experience - there will be some airflow improvement.
Another option I have is for $$$$ to have a comprehensive energy audit and duct analysis done.
$$$$ - energy audit per system = $$$$ ($$$$ subsidized by my local utility co.) My cost $$$$
$$$$ - duct analysis for the downstairs unit/ducts only.
$$$$ total
Should I get both done or since this appears to be airflow problem, just get the duct analysis and then, based on the findings, make impovements?
Thanks again!Last edited by jpsmith1cm; 12-07-2012 at 05:57 AM. Reason: pricing
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12-07-2012, 01:23 AM #17
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You have Not mentioned
________________ size of house,
............................ nor what city,
+++++++++++++ whether there is a temperature issue,
--------------------- or what the relative humidity is.
........................... size of the diffuser (vent)
AND now you say there are "two" systems. _ ONE Furnace = 1 System.
I am confused and probably everyone else is probably just not clear on the objectives of an analysis and then a repair actually might be.
Stuffy and low air flow are not descriptive enough to get a handle on the overall system issues.
Record Temperature and Humidity 4 times a day for a couple weeks upstairs and each end of basement.
Lowe's
AcuRite Digital Weather Station
Item #: 263101 | Model #: 00609
Adding a return in the basement does not take an analysis.
What size vents throughout the residence?
Air flow velocity for each?
Home Depot
Handheld Anemometer
Model # EA-3010U Internet # 203455797Designer Dan
It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art".

Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
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12-07-2012, 05:58 AM #18
stant-98
Pricing discussions aren't permitted here. I've edited your post.
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12-07-2012, 06:13 AM #19
If pic 6 is of the supply duct for the basement. having turning vanes installed in that ell along with additional return being added for the basement would help a lot.
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12-07-2012, 06:41 AM #20
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Like Darling (design) Dan, I,m confussed. But, what intriques me most is this post. I don't know how to highlight these points so I'll have to re-type them:
Energy audit per system $$$$...what is this? Is this a simple furnace-A/C check? Subsidized by the utility company (really)?
Here's the best one......duct(work) analysis $$$$? Someone charges money for
this? Who does the "analysis"? Please write soon........I gotta know!
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12-07-2012, 07:19 AM #21
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Pictures are unnecessary unless I'm the contractor bidding the job.
You need advise, then take dan sw fl advise. That would be the most logical way of determining proper air flow.
The airflow requirement needs to be determine first (Heat Load), than readings of actual airflow needs to be measured, then compared.
Anything else is just a guest; even pictures!!
Godspeed.
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12-07-2012, 07:35 AM #22
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Since other -fiscal cliff- things from the small-minded boys in Washington DC
already got me " Really torqued up" this AM,
let's simply tell it like it is.
Post #16, if accurately written, describes the actions of a less-than-honest contractor.
_ OP { stant_98} obviously needs to "help himself" by moving on and continuing to learn of an appropriate path to BOTH DESCRIBE and resolve
_ whatever issues he has with comfort in his "new" residence.
I could use a much, much stronger [editable ] words but I think
I have used them All in blasting off a letter
to my Senator$ and congre$$man
who wish to $teal-my-wallet.
From a normally calm , thoughtful person.
Sorry.Designer Dan
It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art".

Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
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12-07-2012, 09:32 AM #23
pMost basements are a little stuffy at the end of a summer unless they have a dehumidifier that is able to maintain <50%RH. Also most most homes need enough fresh air to purge indoor pollutants in 4-5 hours. The remains of a little mold growth throughout the summer could be described as stuffy. This odor will slowly subside as the space dries out. It is not a air circulation but rather a matter of +65%RH in the basement through the summer. The moisture level decline as the outside air dew point declines.
HOw much fresh air are you putting into your home? A good measure is the inside dew point of your home compared to the outside dew point. Is this home in a green grass climate? Measure the temp/%RH in the home and tell us where you live, how many occupants, and humidifier. Fresh air infiltration can be estimated. During cold windy weather, most homes get more fresh air naturally. During the summer, basements should be <50%RH to avoid the stuffy smell.
Regards TBBear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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12-07-2012, 09:50 AM #24
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Designer Dan
It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art".

Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities


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