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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,077
    You're gonna have to lay this thing on its back so you're not fighting oil

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    miami,fl.
    Posts
    605
    Quote Originally Posted by koolkahuna View Post
    Super Poxee DP-2


    WATSCO,INC

    1800 WEST 4TH AVENUE

    HIALEAH , FL 33010

    US
    Info Phone: 305-885-1911
    if you only knew, hialeah is where all the jerry rig products come out of, im not knocking the product. but in hialeah i can bet there is some local guy that will cut open a tin can compressor repair the bearings or so then weld it back up and install it. can someone else from south florida tell me what they think??????

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    5,137
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonyac1 View Post
    if you only knew, hialeah is where all the jerry rig products come out of, im not knocking the product. but in hialeah i can bet there is some local guy that will cut open a tin can compressor repair the bearings or so then weld it back up and install it. can someone else from south florida tell me what they think??????
    I think that was the address of the company that made the product, not the guy that posted it.
    The main thing is to keep the main thing the main thing!

    If "the grass is greener on the other side", it likely has been fertilized with Bull$hit!

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    5,137
    I wouldn't go buy anything special for this little job. Sometimes you can just heat up the joint and the old solder will remelt and pull up into the fitting or fill the crack. 15% rod will melt right into it with no problem. It's not a steal to copper connection unless you pull the pipe out. Factory compressors have a copper coating on the steel, and as long as you don't remove the pipe into the compressor that coating is still making it a copper to copper connection. But pull it out, and you better have some good fluxed rod to make that connection.
    The main thing is to keep the main thing the main thing!

    If "the grass is greener on the other side", it likely has been fertilized with Bull$hit!

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    427
    I used 56% phas free for many years when I installed med gas systems & liquid nitrogen systems. It flows way to fast. Takes lot heat too. 35% silver flowed just right. Or I'd try 15% with white or maybe brown flux, steel down to bare metal, and keep my heat on the copper until the last second. Besides, why do you want to use the heat required to melt 56%?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by anthonyac1 View Post
    if you only knew, hialeah is where all the jerry rig products come out of, im not knocking the product. but in hialeah i can bet there is some local guy that will cut open a tin can compressor repair the bearings or so then weld it back up and install it. can someone else from south florida tell me what they think??????
    I didn't know they had a lock on all the jerry rig products, however that has nothing to do with the super poxee product. It is sold at all of our refrigeration suppliers and has been for the last 25 years.
    If it didn't work flawlessly for me I wouldn't recommend it.

    I would personally braze this if possible. If not possible THEN I would use the epoxy before replacing the compressor.

    What makes Hialeah so prone to jerry rig products? Retirees with money to invest in scam sales that go under along with their investment money?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    5,137
    I haven't researched it too much, but I know that manu's don't want us to use flux on 410a systems (I realize this one isn't 410a) due to the cleaning capabilities of the refrigerant, or is it the POE oil? Something to do with clogging txv's, etc. This is why I stay away from flux.

    The only time that I have had to use flux is when I was installing a compressor, I brazed in the discharge line and then decided to change something. What I should have done was cut the line and brazed in a fitting, but what I did was reheat the line and pull it out of the compressor connection, which evidently pulled off the copper coating, so then I had a copper to steel connection. But on most repairs we do I see no need to use anything other than 15% rod.
    I would like some feedback on this.
    The main thing is to keep the main thing the main thing!

    If "the grass is greener on the other side", it likely has been fertilized with Bull$hit!

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    521
    You could silver braze every connection and never have a problem other than the price difference from SilFos to 15% silver solder. Flux is not a problem when applied properly. Put it on the male fitting only. Use silver solder paste flux with SilFos when you have a dirty fitting as well. By this I mean when you have to follow up on a previous weld that is contaminated with refrig oil from a leak or wasn't perfect from the start. The silver solder paste covers a myriad of sins along with its' designed purpose.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    521
    Any news? Did you fix the leak?:thumbup:

  10. #23
    Here is the picture of the compressor at HP line where the leak was found. I sanded the area and picked up some %45 satefy-silv and white flux. I was thinking of attemping this tonight. Do I really need to do an intert gas purge?Name:  IMG_7711[1].jpg
Views: 174
Size:  51.8 KB

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    521
    If you are going to torch it, you'll have to pull the compressor out of the system and lay it on the opposite side or you will never get it hot enough as the oil level is close to or even above your repair site. You do not want to "coke" the oil either by burning it.
    Remember to let the compressor sit for a few hours after re-installation and prior to starting it to ensure the oil drains out of the internal suction port as the compressor will not chew liquid happily.

    Also keep in mind that as you heat the shell of the compressor, the inside of the shell may get hot enough that the radiant heat may bake the laminate off the closest motor windings enough that two windings may short together. I would use a serious heat source such as oxy-acetyle
    ne to reduce the amount of time that the shell is hot. This will also help your weld.

    Defininitely use nitrogen to purge as you weld. It will be better for the system and keep moisture out if you do it right.

    I still think you should try the epoxy...save yourself a lot of work and possible damage to the system and/or the compressor.

    Good luck either way!

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    894
    How much is a new compressor ? Might be the best long term solution if price is right.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    1,018
    Make sure you have some type of vibration isolation. Otherwise you will have the same problem again.

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