Hooking up in line fans to boost temperature in one room - Page 3
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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rochester NY
    Posts
    4,695
    Where's that PITA jerk TEDKIDD when he might actually provide some VALUE ya mean?

    Unfortunately, I don't see anything but to support/reinforce the good stuff already stated:

    Quote Originally Posted by jtrammel View Post
    In line fans usually slow air flow rather than boost it. It just acts as a restriction in the duct.
    Only so much air will go through a 6" duct. Stick stuff in there and you get less.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shophound View Post
    If you cannot remember the room ever being warm, either rhe booster fans have been burned out forever, or they never did any good in the first place. My money would be on the latter bet. Furthermore, I would bet that if you pulled the booster fans out of the duct and then patched the duct where the fans were, the room might actually feel a little warmer. Not much, but more than you have had so far.

    By how you describe the addition, it is a huge heat loser, and you do not have enough warm air going in to offset the loss. Mimi split is probably your best option, since your existing house system might not handle a room with that high of a heat loss.
    Think I would spend my time and money on insulating and draft-sealing the room.
    Supply improvement / loss reduction - what is the bigger opportunity? Be nice to test the room for leakage to know just how big a part of the problem that is. Funny how people focus on more heat when sometimes less loss is the easier fix. Caulk the window trim, jambs, baseboard...

    Quote Originally Posted by Shophound View Post
    Pull the fans out and go with a Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner (PTAC), like you see in hotel rooms. Those are available as heat pumps with electric backup, just like a regular heat pump.

    Your problem is way too much heat loss for the pathetic amount of air supplied to the room from the furnace. Pulling the booster fans out may improve airflow to the room, but may not make it much warmer.
    I like the comment about making the booster fan much bigger than the duct. That's the only way I can see this "cure" being meaningfully helpful. Nicely done.

    Can you describe your furnace and house size? Does your furnace have the ability to run near continuous, or does it fire and shut off? How far is the new room from the furnace? Can we see pictures of the duct?

    Shortcircuit has a crazy sunroom on stilts. Because his equipment modulates between 60k and 12k, it basically runs if it sees a moth fart. Apparently that has made a huge difference in comfort and evenness, summer and winter. I thought that room would require a separate heat pump, looks like I was wrong.

    He's also got energy bills 65% the size of his neighbors, and unlike them, no comfort complaints. And no setback, which dehumidifies so well that his wife complains if summer setting is below 75.

    http://bit.ly/comfortcalculator
    Which makes more sense to you?
    CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
    ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%

    DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
    What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!

    Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    11,274
    Even if you end up throwing a bunch of heat into that room somehow, all that glass might counteract comfort via sucking heat straight out of you, even if the air around you is warm. Is the glass double pane low e?
    • Electricity makes refrigeration happen.
    • Refrigeration makes the HVAC psychrometric process happen.
    • HVAC pyschrometrics is what makes indoor human comfort happen...IF the ducts AND the building envelope cooperate.


    A building is NOT beautiful unless it is also comfortable.

  3. #29
    I got the fans going. Decided to trigger them through my home automation system when furnace is running. Room is averaging 5 degrees warmer but this will fluctuate based on outside temp moving forward - currently it is around zero. Room is sealed and well insulated where there are walls and windows are double glazed Pella so I am sure they are reasonably efficient. I will look into a split long term. Thanks for the help.

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rochester NY
    Posts
    4,695
    Quote Originally Posted by simonmason View Post
    Room is averaging 5 degrees warmer but this will fluctuate based on outside temp moving forward - currently it is around zero.
    Hmmm, not clear. Averaging 5 degrees warmer than what, freezing?

    How much COLDER than your furnace setting is the room? Under or over 5 degrees? In other words, did it take the room from unbearable to crappy, or unbearable to "just gotta wear a snuggie".

    Box fans in doorways work wonders as well. Run it an hour before you want to use the room.
    Which makes more sense to you?
    CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
    ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%

    DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
    What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!

    Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    I can hardly even visualize a 5f split. I consider 2f a major imbalance problem. Only so much you can do if ductwork is grossly undersized.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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