Several months ago, when my 3.5-ton 1999 Rheem hp condenser started having problems, I discovered that the FSEC was soliciting participants in my county for an energy "study". It sounded like there might be some financial benefits attached to participation (maybe even a new heat pump?), so I submitted an application.
Well, as you all know, my heat pump died in October and after much research, with the help of pro's in this forum, I finally had a 3-ton Carrier Infinity Green Speed installed last week, along with some "tweaking" of existing ductwork. I had already had ductwork sealed and insulation added as a result of an FPL blower door test that I paid for the end of July. And another "free" blower door/infiltrometer evaluation by a contractor hoping to sell me a replacement heat pump.
So guess what? Now I'll get to find out just how well sealed the new ductwork is and how efficient the new heat pump is. I just got word the FSEC selected my home for participation in their study! They'll be here for 4 hours next Wednesday to perform another energy audit and to install energy monitors for selected equipment. My energy usage will be sent to them via wifi throughout the study period (6 months or so).
Should be very interesting. And who knows, there could be a solar hot water heater in my future!
Sounds interesting and fun. Keep us updated with how this experience goes.
I found the FSEC study on "cool roof" strategies very informative as we were deciding on how to carry out our own cool roof. Sure wish we had a FSEC equivalent here in Texas. That said, a lot of their study results easily carry over here, as much of our state is hot-humid, like Florida.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
Sounds interesting and fun. Keep us updated with how this experience goes.
I found the FSEC study on "cool roof" strategies very informative as we were deciding on how to carry out our own cool roof. Sure wish we had a FSEC equivalent here in Texas. That said, a lot of their study results easily carry over here, as much of our state is hot-humid, like Florida.
While the study will be conducted by FSEC, it was commissioned by Florida Power & Light (FPL). I think FSEC has done a number of studies for entities in other states, including Texas. I'm sure the FSEC would be happy to do a study in your area if your local power company asked. I believe at least some of the funding comes from federal grants from the DOE. You could ask your local power company if they'd be interested in commissioning the FSEC to do a study in your area. As a matter of fact, here's a Sep 2012 FSEC publication that documents their study of homes in San Antonio.
While the study will be conducted by FSEC, it was commissioned by Florida Power & Light (FPL). I think FSEC has done a number of studies for entities in other states, including Texas. I'm sure the FSEC would be happy to do a study in your area if your local power company asked. I believe at least some of the funding comes from federal grants from the DOE. You could ask your local power company if they'd be interested in commissioning the FSEC to do a study in your area. As a matter of fact, here's a Sep 2012 FSEC publication that documents their study of homes in San Antonio.
No %RH data. Passive fresh air ventilation, guess it is not important. To bad, wonder why.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
No %RH data. Passive fresh air ventilation, guess it is not important. To bad, wonder why.
Regards TB
The stated goals of this Texas study related specifically to energy consumption and peak demand. I'm not surprised that comfort considerations would be outside the parameters of the study.
Ask them to monitor CO2 levels.. This will give some estimate of actual air change rates.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Ask them to monitor CO2 levels.. This will give some estimate of actual air change rates.
Regards TB
The homeowner agreement states they will perfom "indoor air quality tests, as applicable at the discretion of UCF/FSEC." To qualify for the study, no gas, oil, or other non-electric appliances are allowed and there's nothing stated in the agreement about CO2 testing. The following is included in the description of the initial energy survey:
"measure the interior temperature and humidity levels, measure interior formaldehyde and total volatile organic compound concentrations, measure the tightness of the building envelope, measure leakage of duct work, measure energy use, and complete a homeowner satisfaction/home operation questionnaire"
The homeowner agreement states they will perfom "indoor air quality tests, as applicable at the discretion of UCF/FSEC." To qualify for the study, no gas, oil, or other non-electric appliances are allowed and there's nothing stated in the agreement about CO2 testing. The following is included in the description of the initial energy survey:
"measure the interior temperature and humidity levels, measure interior formaldehyde and total volatile organic compound concentrations, measure the tightness of the building envelope, measure leakage of duct work, measure energy use, and complete a homeowner satisfaction/home operation questionnaire"
This will be great. VOC formaldehyde is good. I just completed a year of monitoring a GS.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Several months ago, when my 3.5-ton 1999 Rheem hp condenser started having problems, I discovered that the FSEC was soliciting participants in my county for an energy "study". It sounded like there might be some financial benefits attached to participation (maybe even a new heat pump?), so I submitted an application.
Well, as you all know, my heat pump died in October and after much research, with the help of pro's in this forum, I finally had a 3-ton Carrier Infinity Green Speed installed last week, along with some "tweaking" of existing ductwork. I had already had ductwork sealed and insulation added as a result of an FPL blower door test that I paid for the end of July. And another "free" blower door/infiltrometer evaluation by a contractor hoping to sell me a replacement heat pump.
So guess what? Now I'll get to find out just how well sealed the new ductwork is and how efficient the new heat pump is. I just got word the FSEC selected my home for participation in their study! They'll be here for 4 hours next Wednesday to perform another energy audit and to install energy monitors for selected equipment. My energy usage will be sent to them via wifi throughout the study period (6 months or so).
Should be very interesting. And who knows, there could be a solar hot water heater in my future!
NO ONE
better to be selected for Study than a brilliant Young Lady _ FLORIDA Joy
BUT FSEC picked the WRONG 6 months.
The heat pump may run 100 hours in the December through February Period and
you won't get to know Anything about summer cooling performance.
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
NO ONE
better to be selected for Study than a brilliant Young Lady _ FLORIDA Joy
BUT FSEC picked the WRONG 6 months.
The heat pump may run 100 hours in the December through February Period and
you won't get to know Anything about summer cooling performance.
Dan, the young lady on the phone guessed at "6 months or so" when I asked how long the study would last. However, the agreement she sent me to sign actually states the study will last up to 2 years.
Dan, the young lady on the phone guessed at "6 months or so" when I asked how long the study would last. However, the agreement she sent me to sign actually states the study will last up to 2 years.
Should be very interesting!
I guess I'LL have TO STUDY WITH YOU?!
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
NO ONE
better to be selected for Study than a brilliant Young Lady _ FLORIDA Joy
BUT FSEC picked the WRONG 6 months.
The heat pump may run 100 hours in the December through February Period and
you won't get to know Anything about summer cooling performance.
Originally Posted by Florida Joy
Dan, the young lady on the phone guessed at "6 months or so" when I asked how long the study would last. However, the agreement she sent me to sign actually states the study will last up to 2 years.
Should be very interesting!
November through February there is usually very little heat pump usage (cooling or heating) at my house. Over the past week, the temperature outdoors has varied between 58/59 at night to 80/81 during the day. However, my indoor temperature hasn't moved below 70 or above 73. No need for heating or cooling!
The Green Speed does go into dehumidification mode thoughout the day, but I've been monitoring my meter readings daily and I can tell the energy usage is negligible.
Green Speed Auto Dehumidification - Minor Programming Glitch
Originally Posted by Florida Joy
November through February there is usually very little heat pump usage (cooling or heating) at my house. Over the past week, the temperature outdoors has varied between 58/59 at night to 80/81 during the day. However, my indoor temperature hasn't moved below 70 or above 73. No need for heating or cooling!
The Green Speed does go into dehumidification mode thoughout the day, but I've been monitoring my meter readings daily and I can tell the energy usage is negligible.
I've discovered the Infinity Control will only dehumidify (i.e., overcool by 3 degrees) when the system is "idle" in the "cooling" mode. That means if "auto" changeover between heating and cooling is selected, the last heat pump operation has to have been in "cooling" mode or it will not dehumidify until the temp reaches the "cooling" setpoint and the hp switches to "cooling". If the last hp operation was "heating", the hp will sit idle in "heating" mode and no dehumidification occurs until the setpoint for "cooling" is reached.
I see this programming logic as a minor irritant during the "shoulder season(s)" here in Florida, which is pretty much November through February. But it's still a great improvement over my old "on" or "off" 10 SEER 3.5Ton Rheem!
For the time being, I've elected to set the control at 75* for cooling 24/7 and I have the heating set for 70* during the day, 64* from 11pm to 8am (cool sleeping is great), and 68* for "wake-up" time (8am-10am). For the last 2 weeks, it's occasionally been cold enough overnight for the heat to come on briefly at wake-up time, but the house will stay between 70* and 73* during the day so the A/C never comes on. After the occasional morning warm-up, there's no need for heat during the day either.
When it gets to 72/73* in the house, I'd still like to see it dehumidify automatically, but it won't when the last hp event was heating. When I feel the humidity is getting a little high, I actually have to go to the control and switch it from "auto" to "cool" and then back to "auto" so it will dehumidify as needed and still be ready for heat in case it gets cold overnight. It appears this will be a daily task for awhile unless Carrier updates the software sometime in the future. (Sorry, Teddy Bear, but I still have no room nor interest in a whole house dehumidifier.)
I've discovered the Infinity Control will only dehumidify (i.e., overcool by 3 degrees) when the system is "idle" in the "cooling" mode. That means if "auto" changeover between heating and cooling is selected, the last heat pump operation has to have been in "cooling" mode or it will not dehumidify until the temp reaches the "cooling" setpoint and the hp switches to "cooling". If the last hp operation was "heating", the hp will sit idle in "heating" mode and no dehumidification occurs until the setpoint for "cooling" is reached.
I see this programming logic as a minor irritant during the "shoulder season(s)" here in Florida, which is pretty much November through February. But it's still a great improvement over my old "on" or "off" 10 SEER 3.5Ton Rheem!
For the time being, I've elected to set the control at 75* for cooling 24/7 and I have the heating set for 70* during the day, 64* from 11pm to 8am (cool sleeping is great), and 68* for "wake-up" time (8am-10am). For the last 2 weeks, it's occasionally been cold enough overnight for the heat to come on briefly at wake-up time, but the house will stay between 70* and 73* during the day so the A/C never comes on. After the occasional morning warm-up, there's no need for heat during the day either.
When it gets to 72/73* in the house, I'd still like to see it dehumidify automatically, but it won't when the last hp event was heating. When I feel the humidity is getting a little high, I actually have to go to the control and switch it from "auto" to "cool" and then back to "auto" so it will dehumidify as needed and still be ready for heat in case it gets cold overnight. It appears this will be a daily task for awhile unless Carrier updates the software sometime in the future. (Sorry, Teddy Bear, but I still have no room nor interest in a whole house dehumidifier.)
Now let get an air change of fresh air in 4-5 hours! As the dew point of the outside air rises without a significant cooling load, the indoor humidity will rise. A small whole house ventilating dehumidifier is the icing on the cake.
Keep posting the results. It is a learning expirence for all. As this progreses , it will be clear what needs to be done. Fresh filtered ventilation air and <50%RH is a must.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
When it gets to 72/73* in the house, I'd still like to see it dehumidify automatically, but it won't when the last hp event was heating. When I feel the humidity is getting a little high, I actually have to go to the control and switch it from "auto" to "cool" and then back to "auto" so it will dehumidify as needed and still be ready for heat in case it gets cold overnight. It appears this will be a daily task for awhile unless Carrier updates the software sometime in the future. (Sorry, Teddy Bear, but I still have no room nor interest in a whole house dehumidifier.)
A little more info on what could have been. I am acttaching data on a straight a/c controlling the temp and resulting %RH. The last day, the fresh air ventilation and dehumidifier was attivated. Two occupants and 80 cfm of fresh air with high outdoor dew points. The home is much more comfortable and fresher with the fresh air and dehumidifier.
Hope a/c designers catch on to what is possible using simple a/c with a whole house ventilating dehumdifier. When this home is unoccupied, the a/c is turned off. The dehu is set at 50%RH with fresh air off. The results are a <50%RH dry home with $15 per month electric bill.
A Ultra-Aire whole house ventilating dehu is no more than a VS a/c.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
I wasn't aware of that study. Wouldn't qualify anyway... my house was built in 1980. The one I applied for is an FPL retrofit study for 30 homes in Brevard and 30 homes in Dade/Broward counties.
I wasn't aware of that study. Wouldn't qualify anyway... my house was built in 1980. The one I applied for is an FPL retrofit study for 30 homes in Brevard and 30 homes in Dade/Broward counties.