I'll start by saying I'm not a plumber and I do very little plumbing. I do lots of hydronic heat, HVAC and ref work, but try to stay away from plumbing, I need some help with water hammer.
Replaced a tank for a friend (of course). Removed a natural draft tank located in centre of house, and installed powervented tank 6' away on outside wall. Changed no other plumbing, 3/4 in and out of tank.
Before install, no water hammer (I know this as I lived there a while). After install crazy bad water hammer on ALL fixtures, hot AND cold, even when the toilet shuts off! Tried installing 2 of those little Oatey water hammer arresters in both the hot and cold mains, as high as possible and close to tank, did little to suppress the problem.
With tank valves shut off, no water hammer at all. With air pockets in the lines, the hammer goes away, but once all the fixtures are are operated, and the air is gone, it's back.
I know I could put a bigger shock arrester in and likely stop the noise, but I really want to FIX the problem
I'm at a loss, any suggestions?
The tank is not %100 level, but its fairly close, could that effect it?
How many BTU's does the heater require. How many gallon's are in the tank. How many fixtures are in the house. What size expansion tank did you install. What type of faucets are in the house and are there any old fixtures with washers for valve shut off. How about single handle faucets. Do you have a pressure regulator. And finally what is the water pressure.
Have you tried draining the entire system then refilling slowly?
Around 20,000 BTUH I think. I will double check
1 single valve kitchen sink
2 valve bathroom sink
2 valve shower
Water pressure is 40-60 psi ish (have to put valve on to check)
I should note, hammer is delayed after shutting off faucet. Close sink, count 1, 2, BANG
Arresters are just little guys (the kind you buy at Home Depot) about the size of a roll of quarters. I'll do some research and grab more info
No, what would that do?
Originally Posted by AccurateHT
What about the expansion tank. It is usually a code requirement. And what brand of water pressure regulator do you have installed and what is the model number.
Also check that all the washer's in the fixtures are in good condition. I have seen many times where they are old and not seated correctly which will cause this symptom.
It should have heat trap nipples, most do. Did you use dielectric unions to connect to the piping?
May not make a difference but if fast fill is displacing water in an important air stub a slow fill will correct it.
Originally Posted by LKJoel
Just a stupid thought...
Did you check to make sure the dip tube was on the correct side? Or there at all? should be on the "cold side".
If a day goes by and you have learned nothing, I hope you got a lot of sleep.
Did not verify dip tube, good suggestion
All houses here run off of city pressure and don't have reducing valves. I lived here 3 years, never so much as a tap. Now, it's really loud.
All fixtures are low flow. This is a small war time house. 1200 ftsq. nothing extravagant here at all
Next step for me is to remove valves from tank, check dip tube, install bypass between hot and cold lines with shutoff between and preform more tests to see if its the tank or house
Possible, I helped him do a lot of plumbing changes before the tank changeout. So maybe not, but will play around
Originally Posted by AccurateHT
I would isolate all the faucets and toilets and see if that makes a difference.
You mean isolate and test 1 by 1?
Originally Posted by alcomech