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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    1,383
    <<S.I.T. Makes those Pilots FYI.>>


    Thank you, JTP10181.


    I'd like to discuss the SIT pilot burner that is increasingly common these days, featuring a wire clip that can be removed which allows the top of the pilot burner to be removed easily.

    From that point, an allen wrench allows the pilot orifice to be removed easily for cleaning.

    I've found reassembly more difficult, especially if the clip bends or breaks.

    It's a worthwhile idea to make pilot burners in fireplaces more easily cleaned without having to do a lot of disassembly to get at them. But I think these need some refinement still.


    I'd like to get a supply of the wire clips ---- they should have a bowl of those at fireplace distributors for free would be my preference.


    I think IU am correct that the NG pilot orifice is stamped .0030 while the propane orifice is stamped .0036, I've found a propane orifice in a NG fireplace already, making the flame much too small.

    Which parts for this burner are you or would you consider carrying? The top burner cap, pilot orifice and clips are the choices that occur to me offhand.


    Are you finding distributors that have these parts readily available?




    Seattle Pioneer

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,469
    As you know thats not going to happen...Why break up a pilot burner if you can sell the whole thing is the mfg position. Remember when you could purchase different pieces from a PG-9? Orifice-pilot body-generator AND they even used to give away the mounting bracket when going from a PG-1 to a PG-9. How you say: aah the good old days

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    1,078
    PG-9 ? Whats that? We use PG-1 pilots...

    Anyway... yeah, good luck just getting those clips. My purchasers response would be "The shipping costs more than the part!". That's his favorite line these days.

    BTW I hate SIT valves and pilots... but uhg, most of our fireplaces are switching to them now (for standing pilot versions), bye bye Robert Shaw. I would rather rip the burner pan out to get to the bottom of the pilot that try and get that clip back on. I also hate the flame created by that stupid disc looking pilot assembly from SIT. While I am on the topic... GO DEXEN, I like our IPI system with the DEXEN valves, by far the best things to work on. Especially with the new 2 flame pilot (instead of 3).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,469
    [QUOTE]Originally posted by jtp10181
    [B]PG-9 ? Whats that? We use PG-1 pilots...

    I'm sure you use PG-9 not PG-1 Remember the PG-1 is that old round jobber with the little tits sticking up in a circle and about 3" tall. How's that for a technical description

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Gilroy, Calif
    Posts
    188
    works for me Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    1,078
    Doesn't sound like what we use, but the two gas log pilots we use are "PG-1-60" and "PT-1". The PG-1-60 is for APK (remote or wall switch) gas logs and the PT-1 is for SPK (knob inside the fireplace) gas logs. The PG-1-60 is about the same as a pilot for DV fireplace minus the thermocouple. Its a pilot hood and a termopile and the valve uses an EPU wire. The PT-1 is just a Pilot hood and a thermocouple.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Gilroy, Calif
    Posts
    188
    Jtp sounds like you're a installer of gas logs. Was wondering if it was acceptable to have a flex line inside the fire box? We've been having some problems with home owners and some contractors using a wood fire place for the installation of a gas log (decorative log) and installing flex lines and gas ball valve inside the fire box. What do you think?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,469
    Originally posted by jtp10181
    Doesn't sound like what we use, but the two gas log pilots we use are "PG-1-60" and "PT-1". The PG-1-60 is for APK (remote or wall switch) gas logs and the PT-1 is for SPK (knob inside the fireplace) gas logs. The PG-1-60 is about the same as a pilot for DV fireplace minus the thermocouple. Its a pilot hood and a termopile and the valve uses an EPU wire. The PT-1 is just a Pilot hood and a thermocouple.
    Well it seems we may both be right..Could it be they have renumbered?? The numbers I refer to were ITT General Control numbers for the last 50+ years

    http://cgi.ebay.com/GENERAL-CONTROLS...em130035238650

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PG9-PILOT-GENERA...item5949827435

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    448
    Love the description of the PG1 Mike! Did you happen to read my post in the Res.HVAC section in regards to the Bradford White co issue? Wondering what your take is on it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    1,078
    mike3: there is the problem... different vendor, similar part numbers. Our parts are from Robert Peterson. The hood on that PG-9 looks funky but other than that its the same as our PG-1-60


    gje1: Appliance flex lines are OK in there, but a ball valve is probably not a good idea. You can even run CSST inside the firebox if you strip the jacket off of it. The only problem with using anything corrugated is if its too small in diameter you get a high pitched whistling noise from the high BTU that gas logs use. Best bet is to use the supplied aluminum line or replace it with copper of the same diameter.

    They are probably putting a ball valve in there because there is supposed to be a shutoff within 6ft of the fireplace when installing gas logs. If its IN the firebox you cant really turn it off in case of an emergency. Really you are supposed to have a key valve in the floor or wall.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Gilroy, Calif
    Posts
    188
    Thanks jtp

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,469
    Originally posted by blk
    Love the description of the PG1 Mike! Did you happen to read my post in the Res.HVAC section in regards to the Bradford White co issue? Wondering what your take is on it?
    Just read it. Your right it is a high read. I have found lots of water heaters with warp or tipped burners that produce high co. Are you satisfied with your clocking and multiplying? Also did you let it burn for a while before taking reads?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    448
    Yes I fired main burner for a good 5minutes or more to make sure c-vent was good and hot and also made sure it was drawing good, all seemed ok. I also clocked it twice with the same results. I really question the baffle design on this particular unit and was wondering if anyone else had issues with this brand. Thanks for the reply Mike.I may have our utilization fellows check this one out for me.

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