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Thread: Sure-fire way to clear a clogged pilot orifice?

  1. #1
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    Sure-fire way to clear a clogged pilot orifice?

    For clogged pilot orifices, is there some proven poker that
    will clear without making it too large? Or is this just
    really a bad idea? I was thinking maybe a toad sticker
    or dental pick. Does anybody routinely use something
    that routinely works? I've heard from senior techs
    that poking only leads to OMG pilot sizes, but those
    were only two techs and here we have many!
    Anybody?

    (I searched this forum and didn't find anything.)

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    I usually just use some stranded wire. Works really good. It gets inside the pilot itself good too. Then I blow out the rest of the loose stuff. I had a senior tech turn me on to welding tip cleaners. Not sure who made them but they work ok on the orifices that only have one hole.

  3. #3
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    I also use a single stand of copper wire. the copper will not damage the stainless steel.

  4. #4
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    Thread Starter
    So you guys have NEVER had to replace a pilot hood?

    As far as the strand of wire, are you saying one strand
    of stranded 12 gauge or whatever, or would thermostat
    wire be too fat?

    And just so we are on the same page, you are using
    this to clear the existing hole (if I could see it!), not
    to make a new one, right?

  5. #5
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    They sell a pilot orifice cleaner at cc Dickson, my local store keeps it near the orifice drill bit kits. I don't remember what the brand name is but it works well. It's easy to break them though bc they are very small

  6. #6
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    I use a sewing needle. As long as you don't jam it in there like an idiot it won't enlarge the hole.
    Carbon/ash doesn't take much effort to dislodge.

  7. #7
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    fishhook

  8. #8
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    I had one Friday I just took the tube off at the gas valve and used compressed air from a can to blow it out. Worked great.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  9. #9
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    I just carry a bunch of pilot orfice's in the event I can't clean one up. I should look into the kit if it makes life easier, I do have the super small drill bits for drilling orfice's (I must be spelling that wrong) but I'm sure the pilot sized are broke by now.

  10. #10
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    I use nitrogen and a blow gun attachment.

    It bails me out when the pilot, itself won't break loose.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgelass View Post
    As far as the strand of wire, are you saying one strand
    of stranded 12 gauge or whatever, or would thermostat
    wire be too fat?
    Stranded #12 or smaller. Tsat wire would be too fat on most.

  12. #12
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    take it out and washed it out with hot water using a " baby booger sucker" whatever those things are called.

    works every time and you can see by the stream of water if its been damaged ( usually by the guy before you who jammed a wire in it )
    my boss thinks its possible to repeal the laws of physics

  13. #13
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    Straight pin or torch tip cleaner.

  14. #14
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  15. #15
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    Replace it. If you cant clean it with the normal methods, ie water or air, then its time for a new one.
    The only true knowledge is the pursuit of knowledge

  16. #16
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    The white aldehydes that clog the orifice are water soluable. So as strange as it may seem I pop it in my mouth and use my tongue and good old saliva. What my dad did for forty years of pilot furnaces and what I found to work the best. I use a welder tip brush kit for the hood assembly.

  17. #17
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    wow dirt get clogged the orifice im guessing nitrogen should help this problem

  18. #18
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    This what I've done since I can remember:

    After removing the orifice from the pilot assembly I get the brass brush I keep with me for cleaning all sorts of combustion components and I use a pliers to pull out a single strand of brass wire. then I run it in and out of the pilot orifice(s). works each and every time. sometimes I only need to brush the outer tip, but most of the time I pull a single strand and do it that way. Hold the pilot up to a light before and after to see the difference.

    There is no damage done to the orifice because the wire is so fine.
    What lies behind us and what lies before us are small matters compared to what lies within us.


    Two pressures, four temperatures = SUCCESS!


    Boulder Heating Contractor


    For Consumers:

    For HVACR Professionals:


  19. #19
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    I have always used 1 strand of a wire brush. The steel is stiffer than copper. Learned it from an old timer in the mid 70's when everything was standing pilot. Thank You Mr Bush of Bush Furnace and Boiler!
    ckartson
    I didn't write the book I just read it!

  20. #20
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    the t-stat wire works great on a muzzleloader nipple,its just right!
    Quote Originally Posted by Hvac216 View Post
    Stranded #12 or smaller. Tsat wire would be too fat on most.

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