Results 196 to 208 of 279
11-15-2012, 08:53 PM #196
Aw come on gravity, didn't you learn how to share from sesame street? These videos sound pretty good!
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11-15-2012, 09:02 PM #197
haha. y'all are a trip.
11-15-2012, 09:49 PM #198
11-15-2012, 11:05 PM #199Professional Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
Wow! thought I was never going to get thru all these posts. I think you guys scared him off.
11-16-2012, 02:59 PM #200Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
ok im done with this thread but i know one thing ,i did a qualified tech would do ,so i guaranteed the best of techs would change the board good bye
11-16-2012, 03:06 PM #201
No, a qualified tech would have fixed it on the first day. Did you fix it?"Fortunately, I keep my feathers numbered for just such an emergency." Foghorn Leghorn
11-16-2012, 03:07 PM #202Professional Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
No!!!!!! Don't be done with it... We were all just joking, you are a very wise man, we know that. We are all just jealous of how well you can do your job and we want to be like you. Most of all we are all very interested as to what the problem was with this furnace so we just would like to know when you get it fixed... If its already fixed, do you remember which day it was fixed???
11-16-2012, 04:12 PM #203
and Im betting the board did NOT fix your problem, unless you changed out all the other components too.
from the symptoms you described, you probably did not have to change anything out. I have had these very symptoms recently, the "fix" is astonishingly simple.
\.No law ever prevented a crime.
11-16-2012, 04:47 PM #204
Just for the fun of it, Lets recap the problem:
No model or serial number
No U-Tube manometer
Ok, got it.
1) you jump R to W (eliminating the thermostat) the furnace goes through a normal sequence of operation but the burners shut off after a few seconds of operation?
2) you ASSUME the problem lies in the flame sensor so you check the micro-amp reading and get......you never really said what you got. all you said was" from my knowledge any direct current above 2,0 is good and below 1.6 is a bad flame rod but after I clean the rod and install it back into the furnace
3) On restart you say you have a normal sequence of operation (Vent motor, HSI lights, gas valve opens) but now your not lighting the burners? However you do have 24v to the gas valve...correct?
at this point what do we KNOW, well we do have power (120v and 24v) The vent motor starts, the HSI starts (so the pressure switches MUST be good? right!) we have 24v to the gas valve, but no flame
4) NOW I CAN'T GO ANY FURTHER BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE A FREAKING MANOMETER......this sux
Input output is good or gas valve is not functioning correctly but I doubt also , and another thing the blink lights is one blink which mean ignition failure probable causes gas pressure no gas ,gas valve, flame sensor, and if this could be cause by a open limit or roll out or over temp stack let me know but I seriously doubt it because I think these open when burner is lit, let me know pros and service techs.
seriously, THE BLINK LIGHT!!!! THE FREAKING BLINK LIGHT. <return to calm~~~Breath, deep breaths> blinks once, which Im guessing from your post, that means there is a problem in the ignition sequence, but you still have not checked the pressure switches, vent tubes or gas pressure
Now you say (I ASSUME) you fixed the problem by replacing the board. how many other components did you change out in the two weeks since your original post???
well, at least you got it fixed ( I ASSUME).No law ever prevented a crime.
11-16-2012, 05:25 PM #205
You let me down Youngwiseman. You let me down. I was sure this would go on til the holiday. I think we have a couple winners though. Good for them.Local 597 Service Fitter
Metal Trade Journeyman
PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER
It was working when I left...
11-16-2012, 05:26 PM #206Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
I'm sorry, we weren't trying to be mean, its just a natural response to dry to put someone down when you know that they're the best electrician to walk the face of this earth. We are actually astounded at your diagnostic skills and hope to learn from you. Don't feel bad, most of the professionals here probably would have taken several weeks at least to fix a simple problem, most would just wait until the weather warms up. We need more qualified professionals like you....
On a different note, what did the furnace repairman say was wrong? In case you were wondering, in the future we have this great resource that will help you fix your furnace problems in a much more timely manner, Ask Our Pros Contractor Locator, don't hesitate to use it. Also, if you can teach us how to take readings without any meters or test equipment, that would be amazing, as it would save us the thousands we currently spend for guages, multimeters, manometers, combustion analyzers, etc. Looking to hear from you, master electrician.
11-16-2012, 06:05 PM #207
Let's tell the truth here.
You never articulated ANY readings, giving numerical values, that you took in pursuit of this.
In fact, in the post I quoted above, you did not even say whether the unit was running, whether you were getting paid, or if the "customer" was a relative or a friend. In fact, you never even said you have a job.
As far as I am concerned, you are not a tech, because your ability to answer the questions posed to you is essential for ANY tech to be able to do. The fact that you never responded as a tech tells me that you are a DIY guy, perhaps a self taught kid who thinks he is a tech because he holds an EPA card.
11-16-2012, 08:29 PM #208