DIRECT IGNITION PROBLEM SHOULD BE SIMPLE!

[ControlsInMT]

No, a qualified tech would have fixed it on the first day. Did you fix it?

[wisconsinapp]

No!!!!!! Don't be done with it... We were all just joking, you are a very wise man, we know that. We are all just jealous of how well you can do your job and we want to be like you. Most of all we are all very interested as to what the problem was with this furnace so we just would like to know when you get it fixed... If its already fixed, do you remember which day it was fixed???

[jmac00]

ok im done with this thread but i know one thing ,i did a qualified tech would do ,so i guaranteed the best of techs would change the board good bye

you only get mad if you know your wrong!!!

and Im betting the board did NOT fix your problem, unless you changed out all the other components too.

from the symptoms you described, you probably did not have to change anything out. I have had these very symptoms recently, the "fix" is astonishingly simple.

\

[jmac00]

Just for the fun of it, Lets recap the problem:

No model or serial number
No U-Tube manometer
no heat

Ok, got it.

1) you jump R to W (eliminating the thermostat) the furnace goes through a normal sequence of operation but the burners shut off after a few seconds of operation?

2) you ASSUME the problem lies in the flame sensor so you check the micro-amp reading and get......you never really said what you got. all you said was

" from my knowledge any direct current above 2,0 is good and below 1.6 is a bad flame rod but after I clean the rod and install it back into the furnace

But for some reason you decided to clean it with SANDPAPER anyway. But you never retested it to see what your new reading is??? ut-ooh

3) On restart you say you have a normal sequence of operation (Vent motor, HSI lights, gas valve opens) but now your not lighting the burners? However you do have 24v to the gas valve...correct?

at this point what do we KNOW, well we do have power (120v and 24v) The vent motor starts, the HSI starts (so the pressure switches MUST be good? right!) we have 24v to the gas valve, but no flame

4) NOW I CAN'T GO ANY FURTHER BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE A FREAKING MANOMETER......this sux

Input output is good or gas valve is not functioning correctly but I doubt also , and another thing the blink lights is one blink which mean ignition failure probable causes gas pressure no gas ,gas valve, flame sensor, and if this could be cause by a open limit or roll out or over temp stack let me know but I seriously doubt it because I think these open when burner is lit, let me know pros and service techs.

so now we have come to the guessing part of our program??? you *think* the gas valve is ok?

seriously, THE BLINK LIGHT!!!! THE FREAKING BLINK LIGHT. <return to calm~~~Breath, deep breaths> blinks once, which Im guessing from your post, that means there is a problem in the ignition sequence, but you still have not checked the pressure switches, vent tubes or gas pressure

Now you say (I ASSUME) you fixed the problem by replacing the board. how many other components did you change out in the two weeks since your original post???

well, at least you got it fixed ( I ASSUME)

[2sac]

You let me down Youngwiseman. You let me down. I was sure this would go on til the holiday. I think we have a couple winners though. Good for them.

[danbb]

I'm sorry, we weren't trying to be mean, its just a natural response to dry to put someone down when you know that they're the best electrician to walk the face of this earth. We are actually astounded at your diagnostic skills and hope to learn from you. Don't feel bad, most of the professionals here probably would have taken several weeks at least to fix a simple problem, most would just wait until the weather warms up. We need more qualified professionals like you....
On a different note, what did the furnace repairman say was wrong? In case you were wondering, in the future we have this great resource that will help you fix your furnace problems in a much more timely manner, Ask Our Pros Contractor Locator, don't hesitate to use it. Also, if you can teach us how to take readings without any meters or test equipment, that would be amazing, as it would save us the thousands we currently spend for guages, multimeters, manometers, combustion analyzers, etc. Looking to hear from you, master electrician.

[timebuilder]

ok im done with this thread but i know one thing ,i did a qualified tech would do ,so i guaranteed the best of techs would change the board good bye

Let's tell the truth here.

You never articulated ANY readings, giving numerical values, that you took in pursuit of this.

In fact, in the post I quoted above, you did not even say whether the unit was running, whether you were getting paid, or if the "customer" was a relative or a friend. In fact, you never even said you have a job.

As far as I am concerned, you are not a tech, because your ability to answer the questions posed to you is essential for ANY tech to be able to do. The fact that you never responded as a tech tells me that you are a DIY guy, perhaps a self taught kid who thinks he is a tech because he holds an EPA card.

Wrong-o.

Seeya!

[hurtinhvac]

No!!!!!! Don't be done with it... We were all just joking, you are a very wise man, we know that. We are all just jealous of how well you can do your job and we want to be like you. Most of all we are all very interested as to what the problem was with this furnace so we just would like to know when you get it fixed... If its already fixed, do you remember which day it was fixed???

Too funny!!! You entered the poll inthe Pub - didn't 'cha?

[jmac00]

Too funny!!! You entered the poll inthe Pub - didn't 'cha?

those freak'n Mayans screwed me, I was hoping they were a month off.

[Joehvac25]

Yep, won me all the extra parts!

[Vinster]

hmm

[jledford382]

They're staying with me right now until he can figure it out

LOL

[jledford382]

Wow!! I'm new here, but what an "interesting" thread.

[BNME8EZ]

The sad part is even though no one actually gave the answer there was enough info given that if the guy had a clue he should have been able to figure it out by the 3rd page.

[timebuilder]

The sad part is even though no one actually gave the answer there was enough info given that if the guy had a clue he should have been able to figure it out by the 3rd page.

I agree. That truly is the sad part.

The fact that he needed step by step instructions proves the point of the thread being DIY.

[mason]

This is one of those classic examples of why a skilled tech is so valuable, this problem would have been fixed within the first hour of most techs on this site service call.

This person tried to save themselves or someone they knew money which resulted in no heat for 2+ weeks(who knows how long it took them to come to this site) and I'm hoping they didn't charge for their service because even at minimum wage just look at labor cost alone. Since they don't have any tools or knowledge the parts changing begins. Even at cost if you start changing boards and valves it adds up quickly, no guarantee that while they replace parts that might be the cause they even replace them properly. Ever seen a gas valve leak at the threads causing large flames in the unit on ignition, I have.

So at this point whether the unit is working or not this person has cost themselves or someone else significantly more than if they had hired a knowledgable honest tech in the first place and would have learned more by watching this tech and asking questions then coming here and spewing absurdity.

[timebuilder]

This is one of those classic examples of why a skilled tech is so valuable, this problem would have been fixed within the first hour of most techs on this site service call.

This person tried to save themselves or someone they knew money which resulted in no heat for 2+ weeks(who knows how long it took them to come to this site) and I'm hoping they didn't charge for their service because even at minimum wage just look at labor cost alone. Since they don't have any tools or knowledge the parts changing begins. Even at cost if you start changing boards and valves it adds up quickly, no guarantee that while they replace parts that might be the cause they even replace them properly. Ever seen a gas valve leak at the threads causing large flames in the unit on ignition, I have.

So at this point whether the unit is working or not this person has cost themselves or someone else significantly more than if they had hired a knowledgable honest tech in the first place and would have learned more by watching this tech and asking questions then coming here and spewing absurdity.

Youngwiseman,

[ar_hvac_man]

ok im done with this thread but i know one thing ,i did a qualified tech would do ,so i guaranteed the best of techs would change the board good bye

Bye. Come back soon.

[beenthere]

The sad part is even though no one actually gave the answer there was enough info given that if the guy had a clue he should have been able to figure it out by the 3rd page.

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.

[hkempf]

Pull the connector off the flame sensor hook one jumper from your meter to the flame sensor and the other to the wire you pulled off of it, fire the system, you should get 0.5 microampers