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Thread: Dirty Sock Syndrome after 5 years

  1. #1
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    Is it possible to just get dirty sock syndrome after the system has been working fine for the last 5 years? I didn't notice any odors coming out of the vents at all up until recently. The system was low on refrigerant and icing up prior to this. I haven't used the heat either this year. It just seemed to start producing a smell. I was told I need a dipped/coated coil to get rid of the problem. At first I thought it could be the condensate pump (lies under the unit), but I was told it is the coil.
    Any suggestions...

    Trane unit TWE030C140F1

  2. #2
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    Oct 2006
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    smelly trane

    (1)ck all of your duct work make sure no animal has got in there and died
    (2) could be your condsate pump i recommend dumping old static water out, clean real good with clorox hook back up
    (3)also from coil freezin up could need to be cleaned or from it unthawing the water may still be in the pan.
    (4) ck drain pan to see if stopped up static water may be causing that smell

  3. #3
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    Thread Starter

    Okay..I'll check those things. Also, if it is dirty sock syndrome, should I be able to smell (physically put my nose close to coil) the coil to determine if that is what is causing it. Is the diagnosis of dirty sock syndrome done through the process of elimination, or is there another way to definitively say that coil is causing the problem?

  4. #4
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    Talking its hard to stop a trane

    is it a real bad odor if you can stand the smell i wouldnt really change it out very $$$$. go to your local hvac store and ask the counter help for some odor control stuff for coils. maybe turn heat on and leat the heaters dry the inside of the cabinet out

  5. #5
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    Unless you have standing water in your drainpan it's not the condensate pump causing the DSS. It's absolutely possible to develope DSS over time. What was leaking that caused the ice-up??? Was it the coil? Spray the coil with Simple Green for a non-lasting cure. If the coil was leaking, and system isn't old, have them replace the coil with a coated one, or have them apply a coating(available).
    Good luck.
    If everything was always done "by the book"....the book would never change.

  6. #6
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    Thread Starter

    The leak was at the service valve (quick fixed with leak lock). Wouldn't the DDS get progressively worse? I mean it was almost like one week everything was working fine and then the next week there is a horrible odor. That is why I was looking at the condensate pump as being the culprit. It smells kind of like mold or mildew. It has a free return, so I can get my nose pretty close to the coil. If it is dds, should I be able to smell it this way with the unit off?

  7. #7
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    It is possible. You probably won't be able to smell any thing at the coil, if it is DSS. The most popular theory is that microbes find a home in the coil crevices and these microbes give off an odor when the coil temperature changes. Usually, on heatpumps this happens while running in heat and going into or out of defrost. I have seen it be a problem in cooling, but not as often. In your case, a good cleaning of the coil, drain pan and condensate pump is what I would recommend first. It might help.

    Bobby

  8. #8
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    Thread Starter

    I guess I'm willing to try a coil cleaning first. Do you recommend anything that I can spray on it after the cleaning? I thought they made some kind of chemical. What bothers me the most is that I didn't even put it in heat this year yet. It has been in cool the whole time. I guess the bacteria (I'm guessing that is what causes it) grows extremely fast. Can anyone describe what DDS smells like to them?

  9. #9
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    just curious....could you spray bleach or diluted bleach on the coils.....or would this damage the coils??? should kill bacteria/mold....

  10. #10
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    Originally posted by fronty

    Can anyone describe what DDS smells like to them?

    Exactly what your thread title implies. A dirty gym sock. You'll have to have it cleaned regularly. There's no anti-DSS spray that I know of outside of coating which is done when the coil's new.
    If everything was always done "by the book"....the book would never change.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tundraotto View Post
    just curious....could you spray bleach or diluted bleach on the coils.....or would this damage the coils??? should kill bacteria/mold....
    it has been reported that this method WILL DAMAGE your coils.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fronty View Post
    The leak was at the service valve (quick fixed with leak lock).
    Ruh -roh.

    Wouldn't the DDS get progressively worse? I mean it was almost like one week everything was working fine and then the next week there is a horrible odor. That is why I was looking at the condensate pump as being the culprit. It smells kind of like mold or mildew. It has a free return, so I can get my nose pretty close to the coil. If it is dds, should I be able to smell it this way with the unit off?
    Does it smell like a sweaty old gym sock or does it just smell musty? I would have the area where the coil is checked for signs of mildew or mold if the smell is not sweaty old gym socks.

  13. #13
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    DSS normally smells worse when switching from cool to heat. If you clean it with any cleaner, it will last for one year. Cleaning it will only offer a temporary fix to an agressive problem.

    Like the soup Nazi....
    "You come back in one year."

    If the smell doesn't differ when changing the system between heat and cool, it is come other problem.

  14. #14
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    Dirty Sock Syndrome(dss) Is A Location Prob. Not A Mfg. Prob. Its Caused By Micro Bactria Growing On The Indoor Ev. Coil Because Of Moisture And Temp. Conditions!! During The Defrost Of A Heatpump The Indoor Coil Temp. Gets High Enough To Kill The Bac. The Smell Comes From That. The Fix Is To Coat The Coil So Moister Rools Off The Ev. Coil So It Cant Grow Or Get A Light That Kills The Bact. Ie Guardian Air. That Kills Not Only Dss. But All Viruses In The Home.

  15. #15
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    Smile

    I agree, install a uv light and kill all the bacteria but a word of caution. The uv light will destroy plastic drain pans and humidifier parts. You can also kill all the bacteria with one of those good smelling house hold products. But remember some cleaners eat aluminum fins. And also remember all the conditioned air in your house goes through that coil so don't use anything that you can't stand the smell of. I remember a customer cleaning her washable filter with Pine sol and calling for service because she couldn't take the smell through out her house.

  16. #16
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    DDS

    A Lot Of Things Are Blamed On Dss. Krs-- A Uv Light Is Nothing Near A Guardian Air. Bleach---one Season. Coil Coat , 2 Seasons Guardian Air ,,,,always As Well As ,odors, Viruses , Allergys???? No Advertisments--call Your Local Dealers

  17. #17
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    I got an old heat pump. After 10 years, picked-up the musty odor. Then I operated the air handler continuously. The odor went away. I occasionaly go back to "auto" fan and last a couple weeks before the musty odor returns. So fan "on" does it for me. More even temperature throughout the home but more dehumdifier run time. Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  18. #18
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    Good Night All

  19. #19
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    NGHTYRE: Do you have a website for that Guardian Air.

  20. #20
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    i would try self rinsing coil cleaner first

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