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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    The Beach
    Posts
    747
    What ever you spray it down with, wash it down with warm water as soon as possible. Top, bottom ,sides and ever part you can get to. A good two gal. garden sprayer will do the trick. Spray it down two times if necessary. Clean out the inside drain pan and all the drain piping. Might even replace the drain piping. Take the pump to a sink and use soap warm water and a brush. Then when dry I spray the buckhead with a rust preventer. This has worked for me every time.
    Blue Fox

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    jdrob12000:

    I went to the website for the Guardian Air. It sounded like a UV light is placed in the air flow behind the evaporator coil to disinfect the smell. If this is so, and if the problem emanates from bacteria on the coil, it seems that this would just be treating the symptom and not the source of the DSS. This may be the best that can be hoped for; however, I would certainly rather eliminate the source. The Guardian Air ad says that it gets 97% of the pollutants in the air stream. That might mean, if accurate, that 3% of some (possibly dangerous and certainly irritating) bacteria would still be circulating through the home (and might possibly be accompanied by at least a faint odor).

    So far, the best solution for DSS seems to me to be: epoxy factory-coated new coil; plus, perhaps, either improving air-flow by improving ductwork or by leaving the fan on low during cooling season.

    My DSS didn't show up for two years after installing new Trane heatpumps and coils and furnaces and thermostats. When switching to cooling it is bad and when next switching to heat it is horrible. I have to get something done before next cooling season.

    I never had a problem for eleven years with a builder's grade Carrier-made simple air conditioner and gas furnace. Does anyone know if this problem is limited to heat pumps?

  3. #29

    Smile My DSS adventure

    Just relating my adventure/experience with DSS... I bought a new 16 seer system in 2005 and after 5 years my system developed DSS. I had the air and fan in my unit circulating the air continuously year round to see if this helped clear up the smell. During the winter months I wouldn't notice any smells at all. During the Summer months that air smelled fine until the compressor kicked on and then the smell was really REALLY horrible and caused sinus problems. Looking back I believe it was the change in the coil temperature in the internal duct coils that caused the smell as that is the only thing that possibly changed when the smell occurred. I cleaned the internal coil and pan with some bleach mixture several times but didn't seem to correct the problem. So I eventually replaced all the ducking under the house as the original installation had a TON of air gaps between each register and the main ducting. Not sure how this installation could pass any inspection at all... but caused the system to run very inefficiently. My original thought was to kill two birds with one stone and replace the ducting and maybe also get rid of the smell which could be leaking in through the air gaps under the house. Well after replacing all the ducting the smell didn't change one bit. So I went back to the dirty coil theory... I had previously throughly cleaned the internal coil with mixture of bleach and checking with local HVAC shop they said clean the internal coils with "green" and the external coils with "blue" coil cleaner. So the unit was very throughly cleaned once again. The external coils were dirty and this stuff did do what seemed like a really nice job of cleaning them. This is something I will do from now on as normal maintenance. Especially the external coils which had built up a fair amount of dirty, pollen and other things over the years and hadn't been cleaned like the internal coils had many times. So the cleaning made the unit run much more efficient if nothing else. BUT BUT BUT BUT the horrible smell was just as bad as ever for me even after all the ducking replacement and coil cleaning. I now believe the new high seer units are very hard to get the internal coils clean of all the mold due to how tightly the coils are put together in these high efficiency units (just my theory). My next thought was to replace the internal coils or the whole unit depending on the cost.... but after talking to another HVAC guy they said we couldn't get the replacement coils due to all the flooding in the Midwest and the manufacturer was presently affected by the flooding and there were serious delays (months) coming from that region of the USA. They recommended I have one of the "Air Knight" UVC lights installed (I thought to myself this sounds gimmicky). They said I could have a 30 day free trial to see if it fixed the problem. If after 30 days and it didn't fix the problem they would come and take it away for free. Well the result is that after 2 days of running the Air Knight the problem appears to be gone.... The very first day I couldn't tell the difference and was thinking here we go again, but then the next day I notice the horrible odor changed into a different horrible maybe metallic type smell. Anyways, after the 2nd day the odor smelled to completely disappear... I've been running it for a few days now and it seems like the smell has finally been defeated and I guess my system is running much more efficiently to boot with the new ducting and cleaning. For me at least the Air Knight seemed to be the miracle that fixed this problem. I normally wouldn't post or mention this but I understand how frustrating this problem was for me and I know that the info would be appreciated if I had seen it posted by someone else. good luck my friends....

  4. #30

    My DSS adventure

    Just casually reading another thread and found this quote below.... Not sure how this UV light works but does seem to follow that it kills the majority over a couple of days in my case... My light is placed after the inner coil (return) so seems to make sense in my case.

    "- Finally, UV lights do not kill anything. They destroy the DNA structure of microorganisms causing them to become sterile and eventually die off."

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    352

    Hmm

    Quote Originally Posted by stinky1 View Post
    Just casually reading another thread and found this quote below.... Not sure how this UV light works but does seem to follow that it kills the majority over a couple of days in my case... My light is placed after the inner coil (return) so seems to make sense in my case.

    "- Finally, UV lights do not kill anything. They destroy the DNA structure of microorganisms causing them to become sterile and eventually die off."
    The uv light will treat the symptom, and may cover some of the odor. IMHO, this isn't a solution. It's like using sunblock after you're burnt.

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston,Tx.
    Posts
    16,122
    Quote Originally Posted by Skip 2 my lou View Post
    The uv light will treat the symptom, and may cover some of the odor. IMHO, this isn't a solution. It's like using sunblock after you're burnt.
    Skip 2 my lou, he lives!!!!
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    “Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". - Vernon Law

    "Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown

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