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  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    3,574
    Agree with you about propane on a rental house, bad combination. Stay with electric.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    I'd still consider it mild, because while HDD is a large number, it's because the mild weather means that most of the spring and fall are cool and wet, but it's rarely cold or hot. It's like Southern Michigan with October lasting for 5 months. The CDD is less than 1/2 where I live. and HDD is still 20% lower. 10X is relative... to the fact the CDD is so low, not because HDD is so large. Winter design is 23F, that's still pretty darn mild in my mind, especially considering how far north it is.

    I'd still lump it in with mild. Not quite California mild, and nothing is mild like Hawaii where HDD=0

    Because it lacks the coldest temps, a heat pump I think would be ideal. You be above 30F most of the heating season, propane will rarely if ever be cheaper than the heat pump to operate. You definitely won't recover the increased cost of a furnace over an air handler. You won't even recover the increased annual maintenance costs of having a gas appliance.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    3,233
    but if ductwork is for heating only..it may not be sized to handle a/c side of heat pump.

    dan..thought you were in sw florida.
    The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    7,469
    A heat pump in this case would be a large investment bc of wrapping/increasing size of duct, line set, electrical for outdoor unit and for little benefit as it is relatively mild weather year around. I would stay with the electric furnace in this case, especially since it will be a rental property.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    3,574
    I agree with JT!

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arnold mo
    Posts
    3,969
    Notwithstanding the concerns of duct size etc..., a landlord would do well to consider what his tenants are having to pay to heat & cool a home. You won't be able to keep a good tenant if they are being gouged on utility costs AND the place is uncomfortable to boot.
    An answer without a question is meaningless.
    Information without understanding is useless.
    You can lead a horse to water............
    http://www.mohomeenergyaudits.com

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    6,323
    Quote Originally Posted by energy_rater_La View Post
    dan..thought you were in sw florida.
    I was and will be ... but not currently.

    Go TO the best contract work opportunity
    when the work does not come to you.
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    6,323
    Quote Originally Posted by motoguy128 View Post

    I'd still consider it mild, because while HDD is a large number, it's because the mild weather means that most of the spring and fall are cool and wet, but it's rarely cold or hot. It's like Southern Michigan with October lasting for 5 months. The CDD is less than 1/2 where I live. and HDD is still 20% lower. 10X is relative... to the fact the CDD is so low, not because HDD is so large. Winter design is 23F, that's still pretty darn mild in my mind, especially considering how far north it is.

    Because it lacks the coldest temps, a heat pump I think would be ideal. You be above 30F most of the heating season, propane will rarely if ever be cheaper than the heat pump
    MILD Climate = one owns a single jacket and uses it less than a dozen times a year.
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rochester NY
    Posts
    4,739
    I'm with moto.

    Mild climate is whether you have to bring your garden hose in, not how many days you wear a windbreaker. People have water heaters in their garages, thats a mild climate.
    Which makes more sense to you?
    CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
    ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%

    DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
    What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!

    Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    Quote Originally Posted by tedkidd View Post
    I'm with moto.

    Mild climate is whether you have to bring your garden hose in, not how many days you wear a windbreaker. People have water heaters in their garages, thats a mild climate.
    No, but mild I'm talking the combined HDD and CDD along with the difference between summer and winter design temps. The the peak temps are under 90F and over 20F, I'd consider that a relatively mild climate.

    I'd also consider it mild if you could get by with a single jacket, not 2 or 3. I use 3. My late fall/early spring wind breaker, a early winter/late winter jacket and a heavy down jacket and Carhardts for work when it's <10F. My down parka is so warm that you can't even zip it up even 1/2 way unless it's <20F, you start sweating. That jacket only sees use maybe 20 or so days a year.

    I'll admit a 25F winter design is right on the edge of mild, but the summer deisgn of 88F, seals it up in my mind.

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