Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Post Likes

    frymaster ceramic burner cracked

    Got to change out ceramic burmer on a frymaster pasta magic, anybody got any tips on how to remove and install new, thanks
    Never Assume Anything

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Post Likes
    It depends if the frame of the ceramic burner got torched/welded to the receiver slide of the fry tank. You will need to remove the blower fan and the insulation and blower box that you see in front of the tank. Remove the pilot electrode. If it doesn't slide out now you will need to pull real hard. When replacing the burner you will need furnace cement and the gasket kit. Check the tank slide and make sure it is not damaged or warped.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Post Likes
    Hope you got this done. It's a PITA but I have tips for future if you need them.
    In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm, and three or more is a congress. John Adams

    The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary. H. L. Mencken

    "Life's tough......It's even tougher if you're stupid."
    -John Wayne

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Post Likes
    What do you use the furnace cement for? I have never used that to do a burner change. I would advise changing the ignitors, checking the relay on the control board for pitting of the contacts, cleaning the blower fan if needed as well as the burner orifices and checking gas pressure. If you don't find out what caused the burner to crack, the new one will probably crack for the same reson.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    In a kitchen with my head stuck in an oven
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by restaurantguy79 View Post
    What do you use the furnace cement for? I have never used that to do a burner change.
    I've never rebuilt a pasta cooker. However, older HE fryers required furnace cement to fill the gaps at the two (front & back) lower corners of each burner rail to properly seal up the combustion chamber.

    Just last week I had installed a vat which somebody in our our shop had rebuilt. That vat did not have that furnace cement. During operational test, the fryer would emit a muffled, almost indiscernible "POP" (gas/air leakage) through that gap during ignition. It so happened that the extra insulation suspending down from those joints would then glow RED HOT as the burners got up to speed. A "mirror" test will reveal such a leakage.

    I tore the vat down again and discovered that it WASN'T sealed at those corners with furnace cement. Once I properly "bedded" those corners and reassembled the vat, the problem went away.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor MagazineThe place where Electrical professionals meet.