Traulsen Reach in

[jjust61]

I'm working on an old single door traulsen reach in cooler. Not sure of the model number at this time. The unit was originally operated with R-12. When I got to it recently the compressor was found with a locked rotor. The compressor installed in it at this time is an Embraco FFI 12HBX. My research indicates that this is an R-134a compressor that contains iso 22 POE oil. I have no clue as to what refrigerant is in the unit at this time. Question I have is, when I replace this compressor should I get the same Embraco and attempt to use R-134 or get a compressor that contains AB oil and use mp 39 which is what I've done in the past with the removal of an R-12 compressor.

[Tommy knocker]

I would say both would be fine. I would however treat it like a burn out and give the system a thorough clean up, not for acid just to ensure all refrigerant and as much oil as possible are removed.

[SBKold]

Wouldn't you want to see what metering device is designed for and use that

[timebuilder]

I agree. I'd look to see what refrigerant the metering device is intended to use.

[jjust61]

I agree. I'd look to see what refrigerant the metering device is intended to use.

System has cap tube. Looks like original R-12 factory installed tube.

[54885488]

I would use mp-39 .

[frio]

I would call traulsen tech sup with mod and s/n of unit to verify what compressor needs to be there and what refrigerant they recomend. I normally will use mp 39 with good success.

[rselby]

You don't need to get an Embracco, a Copeland or Tecumseh will work too. More than likely it's a 1/3 HP CSIR compressor. I would probably use R-134A, but in reality MP 39 will work too, so that's up to you.
I would definitely replace the cap tube right off the bat and use a Sporlan C-032S CAP drier, not the desiccant bullet type drier. Drill out the old compressor and see how much oil is in it and what it looks like, flush the condenser coil. Push some dry Nitro through the evap and line set and see if you get any junk that comes out. I pull the cap tube and blow nitro through the evap.
Since this was an R-12 system originally and then retro fitted to R-134A I'd bet dollars to doughnut holes your cap tube is the culprit, especially if it has the desiccant bullet type drier installed.
The most common compressor failure of S/C units is a plugged condenser coil, the heat the compressor creates cokes up the oil and/or breaks up the desiccant in the bullet style driers which plugs the cap tube.

[jjust61]

You don't need to get an Embracco, a Copeland or Tecumseh will work too. More than likely it's a 1/3 HP CSIR compressor. I would probably use R-134A, but in reality MP 39 will work too, so that's up to you.
I would definitely replace the cap tube right off the bat and use a Sporlan C-032S CAP drier, not the desiccant bullet type drier. Drill out the old compressor and see how much oil is in it and what it looks like, flush the condenser coil. Push some dry Nitro through the evap and line set and see if you get any junk that comes out. I pull the cap tube and blow nitro through the evap.
Since this was an R-12 system originally and then retro fitted to R-134A I'd bet dollars to doughnut holes your cap tube is the culprit, especially if it has the desiccant bullet type drier installed.
The most common compressor failure of S/C units is a plugged condenser coil, the heat the compressor creates cokes up the oil and/or breaks up the desiccant in the bullet style driers which plugs the cap tube.

Great advise, thanks. I've even replaced plugged cap tubes with txv with luck. Thanks again.

[rselby]

That's a great idea, I've never considered swapping the cap tube with a TXV, it does makes sense. Do you add a receiver or just make sure you have a liquid seal @ the TXV?

BTW, I was just sharing what I've done in the past to get good results , I hope I didn't come off the wrong way

[craig1]

That's a great idea, I've never considered swapping the cap tube with a TXV, it does makes sense. Do you add a receiver or just make sure you have a liquid seal @ the TXV?

I add a big filter drier like a 163 tilted down so the outlet is at the bottom and put a site glass on the outlet. I charge untill the glass is clear and then add a little more. Done this a few times and every time it worked great.

[rselby]

Got it, you're making a small receiver out of the drier by tilting it down. The old Hussmann s/c freezers had a hollowed out Sporlan drier mounted vertically and a LLFD just down stream. Your technique makes perfect sense. I'm going to try it the way you explained it next time. Thanks for the tip

[jjust61]

I add a big filter drier like a 163 tilted down so the outlet is at the bottom and put a site glass on the outlet. I charge untill the glass is clear and then add a little more. Done this a few times and every time it worked great.

I used a receiver but the large liquid line filter sounds much easier and more economic.