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Thread: Oil on flare

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Pacific NW

    Oil on flare

    Understand oil on threads and back of the flare advantages.

    Read on another site that oil on the mating flare faces helps achieve a the best flare connection.

    Would use POE on threads myself just to avoid risk of contamination (410 system), obviously a must if on the flare itself.

    So, was someone just blowing smoke or is oil on the flare itself 'goodness', and why?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    I always oil the threads and back of the flare, never the faces. I use WD-40 in a pen type applicator (stores easily in my bag) since the amount of oil is minimal and not in the refrigeration system I don't worry about contamination. A good flaring tool (YJ 60278) and oil and my flares don't leak (except for the one I made yesterday, but it looked perfect).

    I can't see how oiling the face helps since it is ultimately about compression.

  3. #3
    As long as the flare is sized correctly and clean, and the tension is correct on the flare nut, I have never seen a need for oiling the flare faces.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    I was reading the manufacturers instructions the other day for a mini-split and they are now suggesting that you add oil to both the inside and outside of the flare. I had the same question as you, so I contacted Daikin and the rep told me that we should be using PVE oil instead of POE. It seems that the majority of the mini-split manufacturers are using PVE oil in their systems instead of POE.

    Well, none of my distributors carry PVE oil, but Nu-Calgon sells it and most distributors can get it for you if requested.

    Hope that helps...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Western, KY
    You want to minimize "grip" as much as you can, same reason you oil the back of the flare. If during the tightening the mating surface wants to slide it's easier with oil. Remember, every flare is just a little different from the tool so as you tighten it down the shape may adjust a little, oil keeps the mating surface from gripping in such a scenario which leads to better seal. It's more of an extra than a necessity though in my opinion.

    I've seen gas companies oil the mating surface of black iron unions for the same reason.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Tallahassee, FL
    Good ole nylog is perfect for this app!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Central North Carolina

    Mitsubishi recommends oil

    Quote Originally Posted by junkhound View Post
    and why?
    When I went to a Mitsubishi class several years ago, the insturctor recommended using
    refrigeration oil on the flare to make sure the microscopic pores were full of something.

    I use Nylog.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Yep I use nylog as well, on the face, back and the threads.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Central NJ Area
    Nylog here also. I apply it to all my service valve caps when installing too. I got both the red and blue. It's funny how they recommend you uses the blue for poe and red for mineral but then they say you can use each for both...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    new england
    Nylog on every flare for me. The stuff is great.
    Chaos equals cash$$$

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Oxford, UK
    Nylogs not available here, but have been using poe in a little oiler for years.

    On one of the milk cooler manufacturers equipment i look after they use what looks like silicone grease on the back of the flare, never had one of their factory one leak, with that in mind been trying out aluminum anti seize grease on the back of flares after getting a tube of Loctite stuff at a car show, seems to work well and stops the pipe turning with the nut.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    I carry a little eye-dropper full of mineral oil with me everywhere. I oil everything with it, including flare nuts. Oil helps when you are actually making the flare also. The amount of oil we are talking about here is so minute that even if it were to get into a system with POE, it wouldn't make a bit of difference. For everything outside of a refrigeration circuit, WD-40 and dry graphite powder are my weapons of choice. On my PMs, I spray down hinges, door latches, linkages, ball joints, etc. WD-40 also works ok for keeping certain things from weathering and rusting, but I prefer to paint items like that with an enamel like Glyptal. Sorry to get so off track there... lol
    The key to happiness is lower expectations.

    Don't pick the fly crap out of the pepper.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Sandy, Utah
    I've never heard of Nylog. Is it oil based or what?

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