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Thread: Old Rheem - High Pressure Trips in Cooling When Overnight ODT < Setpoint

  1. #21
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    if it was 81 208 is low im assuming its R22

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    if it was 81 208 is low im assuming its R22
    Yes, R22. Unit is 3.5 Ton Rheem mfg 12/99.

  3. #23
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    what was the temp inside ur home?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    what was the temp inside ur home?
    Inside with continuous fan, ceiling fans running, and windows open it was 80*, RH 63% when he arrived.

  5. #25
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    68 suction 80 inside you need a new unit not worth repairing

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    68 suction 80 inside you need a new unit not worth repairing
    Excuse me.... the unit was turned off at 2PM yesterday when I noticed the fan motor not running. It was 80* inside when the service tech got here this morning. He checked the suction when he got the fan running before I had a chance to get inside and close the windows. Once I did that, it started getting much cooler inside and reached the 75* setpoint within 20 minutes or so after he left.

    Are you telling me he should have hung around until the temp inside got down to my setpoint of 75 before checking the pressure?

  7. #27
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    if its 80 inside ur pressure should be up close to 80 so either a) ur giving me wrong information or b) if it was 75 then 68 could be reasonable, so which one was it so no need to get defensive,

  8. #28
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    no, good split, good to go

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    68 suction 80 inside you need a new unit not worth repairing
    I absolutely need, want, will get (sooner or later) a new unit. Would be perfectly happy to have the home warranty company's service tech condemn it so I can get a cash-out settlement towards a new unit. As long as they can keep it running, they won't condemn it.

  10. #30
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    its sounds like its low on freon just a little bit, and it is a rheem another good reason to condemn

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    if its 80 inside ur pressure should be up close to 80 so either a) ur giving me wrong information or b) if it was 75 then 68 could be reasonable, so which one was it so no need to get defensive,
    Not being defensive, just trying to understand why the service tech would say the pressures were good and you're saying they're not good. As I said, it was 80* inside before he touched the unit. By the time I got inside to close the windows it had started cooling already. May even have been down to 77 or so at that point, I don't know. I do know it hit the 75* setpoint soon after he left and has been working ever since.

  12. #32
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    Moderator - A Little Help, Please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    if its 80 inside ur pressure should be up close to 80 so either a) ur giving me wrong information or b) if it was 75 then 68 could be reasonable, so which one was it so no need to get defensive,
    I don't see an asterisk in your monicker, so I'm a little skeptical about this advice.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Florida Joy View Post
    I don't see an asterisk in your monicker, so I'm a little skeptical about this advice.
    what is skeptical? im just trying to know correct information, you dont have to believe me i am just suggesting

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Florida Joy View Post
    I absolutely need, want, will get (sooner or later) a new unit. Would be perfectly happy to have the home warranty company's service tech condemn it so I can get a cash-out settlement towards a new unit. As long as they can keep it running, they won't condemn it.
    yOUR main problem is the fact that you are dealing with a home warranty company. If you want it done right pay for it yourself for the HWC have a choke hold on them.IMO.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    if its 80 inside ur pressure should be up close to 80 so either a) ur giving me wrong information or b) if it was 75 then 68 could be reasonable, so which one was it so no need to get defensive,
    1) you're wrong, is this really how you asses charge? The unit has a TXV and 2)you aren't supposed to be posing in AOP

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADillon View Post
    1) you're wrong, is this really how you asses charge? The unit has a TXV and 2)you aren't supposed to be posing in AOP
    were did i say anything about charging? lol

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by toocoolforschool View Post
    yOUR main problem is the fact that you are dealing with a home warranty company. If you want it done right pay for it yourself for the HWC have a choke hold on them.IMO.
    I'm not sure my paying an independent contractor to condemn the unit would result in enough of a cash-out settlement from the HWC. I tried that when I decided to replace the entire Federal Pacific Electric breaker box when the breaker for the water heater wouldn't stop tripping. Yes, the entire system was "condemned" as a fire hazard by the contractor, but because the other breakers were "still working" the HWC would only reimburse me for the "cost to repair/replace the failed component", which was the one circuit breaker. So.... there'd have to be a significantly expensive "failed component" for them to cash-out the HP based on another contractor's diagnosis. And I'm not sure paying a contractor enough to "fudge" a compressor failure would be a good idea.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo86 View Post
    were did i say anything about charging? lol
    I didn't say anything about charging. I said assessing charge. Do you understand the difference? You saying that the unit is 'a little low' based on nothing but suction pressure and indoor dry bulb is wrong. The ID DB is 80 so the suction pressure should be 80? That is a hillbilly method of assessing charge. Why didn't you just ask if the suction line was beer can cold? The fact that you would trash talk a brand on AOP is also wrong. The fact that you are posting is AOP is wrong. You are 360* of wrong. Any other stupid questions?

  19. #39
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    sure what kind of sandwich is that

  20. #40
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    The home warranty company is not responsible for replacing your unit just because you want a more efficient one. Why would they replace the unit when the problem was an $100 fan motor? If you want a new, more efficient unit, then pay for it. It isn't the warranty co's job to upgrade your equipment based on efficiency. You already said yourself that they have paid out more than you have paid in so what else should they owe you? They repaired the unit. The repair was straight forward and inexpensive. That's it. If you want a new unit for the sake of having a new unit, then take some personal responsibility and pay for one. The warranty is there to keep you up and running not shell out for your every whim, jeez

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