Point is! You said......[see if you got power going to ventor motor] He had already said.....[I am getting no power to the plug from the board] so just taking a wild guess here, if he has no power at the board, checking power to the inducer motor would be in vain.
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Sorry I am late getting in. 120v supplied to the board is through the molex connector. I have 24v at R. I have 120v at eac and motor is fine. No power to 5 pin molex when w is powered. I wired inducer to eac and it ran fine. Powered w while inducer running and would not advance to ignition or give fault code.
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help me understand you have the new board in it and it doesn't flash any codes? does the blower run at all with or without the fan switch "on"? and you disconnected the t-stat wire and jumped out r to w1, with 24v from r to c?
Well man if you have power to the board, you have 24v between C and W, and you dont have power coming out of the board, it sounds like the board to me. You bypassed the board and the inducer is operating properly, if you dont have power coming out of the board to the molex plug with a call for heat, i would say its the new board. although it is wierd the old board wouldnt bring the inducer on either, unless the is some kind of problem with those model control boards. Ive had parts come right out of the supply house faulty, its sucks when you get a sweat txv pumping down right out of the box and being careful to keep the valve cool when soldering
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ok tips of the trade: bring a cheater chord for 120v. you could test your blower (PSC only) and inducer. inducer got 120v, check your capacitor. cap OK then bring the cheater chord and test your inducer. that's the long way around. the short way is oif you got no power to the inducer then the board is pooched. if you do get power then it's the inducer. it's simple. don't think about it too much. the board is just an integrated time delay and relays, but it's ONE component. there's nothing you could change on it legally. if the board says no go the rest is no go. replace the board.
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