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Thread: Flame sensor questions??

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by doc havoc View Post
    Should have just left your meter in the circuit and charged the customer for a new meter.
    Why? Is that not how you are suppossed to check a flame sensor? Will it ruin the meter like that?

  2. #22
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    Don't forget to clean the burners and crossovers when you clean that flame sensor. There has to be a good path to ground and it doesn't take much rust to mess with 1 microamp.

  3. #23
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    This is a good thread


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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravity View Post
    check the voltages the board is outputting on the flame sensor.

    had a 1 year old york sunline last week. burners not lighting.

    check volts on flame sensor wire; had 0 volts.

    condemned board.

    same unit next to it was sending 115v thru flame sensor.

    all boards are different though. they may send 70 volts, 30 volts, 115 volts......

    another thing to check is molex plugs. if water gets in them they can cause erratic problems.
    X2

    Though I've never seen anything as low as 30V.

    Always remove molex and/or spade connectors to suspect components, reinsert, repeat, repeat and repeat. I don't completely understand how a clean looking plug or spade can be the culprit, but one in maybe 10 times it's just that quick and easy.

    I sometimes wonder how many "bad" boards were actually just a corrupted connection that was "fixed" when the new connectios were made to the new board.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurtinhvac View Post
    X2

    Though I've never seen anything as low as 30V.

    Always remove molex and/or spade connectors to suspect components, reinsert, repeat, repeat and repeat. I don't completely understand how a clean looking plug or spade can be the culprit, but one in maybe 10 times it's just that quick and easy.

    I sometimes wonder how many "bad" boards were actually just a corrupted connection that was "fixed" when the new connectios were made to the new board.
    I heard somewhere that 40% of boards sent back were still ok. That number could be wrong because I heard awhile ago but since this is the Internet and you read it it automatically makes it true.


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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    I heard somewhere that 40% of boards sent back were still ok. That number could be wrong because I heard awhile ago but since this is the Internet and you read it it automatically makes it true.


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    I believe it.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertime77 View Post
    Why? Is that not how you are suppossed to check a flame sensor? Will it ruin the meter like that?
    The joke was that it only worked with my meter in the circuit so I could have just left it there.

    That would sure puzzle the next tech that liked at it.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig1 View Post
    The joke was that it only worked with my meter in the circuit so I could have just left it there.

    That would sure puzzle the next tech that liked at it.
    Lol I take this stuff way too serious man.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertime77 View Post
    Lol I take this stuff way too serious man.
    That's why I added the little whistling emoticon. Showing sarcasm.
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  10. #30
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    I remember back in my 20's I needed a flame sensor, now @61 the only flame I have is on my stove.........
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  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurtinhvac View Post

    I sometimes wonder how many "bad" boards were actually just a corrupted connection that was "fixed" when the new connectios were made to the new board.
    X2 I fixed an intermittent issue with a fireplace piezo 2 days ago, after 4 other techs were there, by fully plugging the connector in!


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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertime77 View Post
    ran into samething yesterday that through me off right in front of the customer. I make a call for heat and the HSI lights the burners for about 2 to 3 seconds then the gas valve drops out. So presume the flame sensor is dirty, but wanted to check its output, so I put my meter in series with the sensor and wire, which on this furnace goes directly to the board. The micro amp readingon my meter fluctuated from I believe it was .1 to .2, but the thing that was wierd to me was the burners stayed lit this time. So I hooked it back up with out the meter and gas valve drops out. I cleaned the flame sensor up real good, only because my company doesnt have any stocked on my truck or I would have replaced it, and works fine now. That is the way I was taught to check them, and didnt know exactly what my reading was suppossed to be but it seemed low and I was pretty sure the flame sensor was the issue.
    I had a similar experience with a Ruud unit. On the 80 percent units you might try reversing the polarity. This has worked for me twice now.

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