Removing rusted or broken bolts and screws - Page 3
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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    38
    Kimball-Midwest Penetrating Oil. Smells like cherries, works like nothing you've ever seen. I blew up the front end in my old mud racing truck once, in the process of taking that apart, I had to remove the spindles. The first one I had to ram with a forklift to remove. The second one got a little spray of the Kimball-Midwest stuff, it came off with a couple light taps from a 16 ounce hammer. The stuff is magic in a can.

    In this field, anything I've snapped off, I've just put another screw in right on top of it. I only do residential though.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    3,103
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckcrj View Post
    Those look good. They don't look like you can break them very easily. The price is right, too.

    You guys are coming up with some awesome suggestions that I will add to my toolbox. Thanks! Keep it up! Maybe we can write a book on the finer points and nuances of removing broken stuff without pulling your hair out.
    "There is no greater inequality than the equal treatment of unequals."

    -Thomas Jefferson

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan1088 View Post
    Wow, interesting. Gonna have to remember all of these for the next time!
    Done a similar thing made for steam like a wax do that and some heat and works great

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
    If you can not do it right, Why even do it at all?

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    720
    And for those times that a torch can't be used. Works great.

    http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    459
    Every time I encounter a rusted bolt that I know is gonna be a ***** to remove I bust out the O/A. Heating AROUND the bolt until its just about cherry and IMMEDIATELY start trying to remove the bolt when the heat is taken away. I also make sure before I heat it up, that the wrench or w/e is going to fit perfectly snug on the head of the bolt.

    If the bolt does brake or its a rusted stud like on a boiler header. I'll just go right to grinding it flat, drilling and tapping it.

    I <3 my tap and die set.

    Always use an oil too when drilling and tapping. When tapping, do one full turn and then back a half turn to break up the filings. When drilling, press down and drill slow. Just like a drill press.

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    459
    Quote Originally Posted by Reeferman View Post
    And for those times that a torch can't be used. Works great.

    http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41
    That thing's sweet! such a good idea for use around rubber seals and bushings etc.

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