Results 14 to 26 of 32
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10-13-2012, 08:17 PM #14
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10-14-2012, 03:14 PM #15
Here's another that I've used with some success, particularly with fan shaft/hub assemblies.
Heat it up cherry red. Take a candle and smear it at the junction of the two parts.
Some of the wax will smoke off, but some will melt and flow between the parts, creating a lubricating film.
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10-14-2012, 03:25 PM #16
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For broken bolts that are not too rusted in I like to use a left twist drill bit to drill them out. Many times just the drilling force will be enough to back to broken portion out. Otherwise heat and patience normally work.
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10-14-2012, 03:27 PM #17If a day goes by and you have learned nothing, I hope you got a lot of sleep.

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10-14-2012, 03:33 PM #18
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10-14-2012, 05:12 PM #19
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10-15-2012, 12:15 AM #20
In automotive repair, and later in boiler and pump repairs, I have used the candle wax trick many times with success. It gets sucked into the threads like solder.
Guys, if you heat the tapping instead of the bolt you will get better results. When you heat something with a hole in it the hole gets bigger. If you heat the bolt more than the tapped piece, it gets tighter until the temps equalize.
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10-15-2012, 12:23 AM #21
As for extractors, I have tried a lot of different ones. So far these are the best I have used. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....mp;dir=catalog
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10-15-2012, 12:36 AM #22
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10-15-2012, 07:19 AM #23
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gotta shock them too.....a few good swift whacks with a hammer will sometimes break the rust.
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10-15-2012, 08:52 AM #24
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10-15-2012, 08:53 AM #25
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10-15-2012, 10:25 AM #26
Left handed drill bits are must, X2 on Snap on extraction products (been through many Snap on works and lasts) and X3 or 4 on the tranny fluid.
the candle wax trick works, I also never done my self but a friend in the marine industry uses ''Mint'' on aluminum.It's hard to stop a Trane. but I have made one helluva living keeping them going.



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