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10-15-2012, 10:38 AM #40
Two very good counter points that should be considered. Those issues mean net cost analysis, Greenspeed probably will be more. Guess it depends how much heating cost savings there are in that big COP jump.
He'll probably not be putting in one much less two Greenspeeds, but without them in the cost/benefit analysis, the decision matrix is incomplete and biased. Poor or biased perspective leads to bad decisionmaking. If it were my audit I'd be modelling them to understand net cost.
TB - Infinity allows scheduling fan settings. Try managing fan settings seasonally.But the home's lower level was cool even with supplies off and +60% RH,
My mother complained of icebox basement as well. We found that if she turns her fan to "On Medium" in April, then back to auto in July it seems to solve her icebox basement problem. I think she subsequently has gone to "On Low" the rest of the year, it keeps parts of the house from getting stale and dramatically cut dusting.
The idea was that by improving air circulation/mixing through the house during the period equipment otherwise seldom runs, and that the ground is coldest (pulling a lot of BTU from the basement that aren't being replaced), it evens temperatures throughout and you actually gain some cooling benefit to the rest of the house from the cold mass.
This assumes you have a low return in the basement, you want return pulling from the coldest location (hopefully Brian won't see this).
Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
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10-15-2012, 10:54 AM #41
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Interesting! I heard about the Greenspeed (and whatever Trane calls theirs)... had not heard much about testing or owning one.
New technology is always expensive and usually has bugs. I say: give it a few years, lets see how they get the bugs out of it.
And I agree; a VS drive furnace with proper AC sizing (and proper duct design) probably will work just as good if not better.
I do hope the technology is developed... as if it is not; multi-head mini's may take a slice from the ducted business.GA-HVAC-Tech
Galatians 2:20-21; Colossians 1: 21-22 & 26-27; 3:1-4; Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8
2 Chronicles 7:14
Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service.
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10-15-2012, 11:08 AM #42
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Been telling folks this for years (hilited and underlined part)...

As soon as that little amount of moisture from the coil is gone... the circulation helps the rest of the house until the next cool call. In heat season, it is all good!
Have a customer that is looking at a MOD furnace with 2 stage AC... should be an interesting system. I plan to use the HoneyWell Presitge IAQ with remote... customer likes the idea of T-stat being mobile. If they buy it, will post some details.GA-HVAC-Tech
Galatians 2:20-21; Colossians 1: 21-22 & 26-27; 3:1-4; Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8
2 Chronicles 7:14
Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service.
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10-15-2012, 07:55 PM #43Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
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10-15-2012, 08:19 PM #44
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10-15-2012, 08:53 PM #45
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Another thing to consider is that here in central florida we are part of Hurricane Alley, with that we are having a generator installed that will power most of the systems in the house. If we go with split systems we can get a smaller generator and only need to power the downstairs of the house in the event of an outage.
This just adds to the decision between one and 2 systems.
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10-15-2012, 08:59 PM #46
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10-15-2012, 09:03 PM #47
I appreciate the hope that the sales claims of newly developed a/c designs are going to solve the humidity control problem that we have. These new a/cs are better than the old single speed a/c but they have limitations.
A very small amount of the moisture on a coil drain at the end of the cooling cycle. High seer coils hold about 1 lb. per ton at the end of the cooling cycle. Only a couple onces drains in several minutes at the end of the cycle. The rest evaporates back into the house. If the fan is on low, the coil dries in about one hour. If the fan is off, it takes about two hours for the coil to dry back to the home. Yes, the VS a/cs slow the cooling rate if the %RH is above the setting. But during low/no cooling loads, there is not enough sensible cooling to remove the latent load that is typical in occupied homes with minimal infiltration.
I suggest that you get humidity control assurance in writing. There are many months of latent cooling loads without significant sensible cooling. Adding a small whole house dehumdifier makes maintaining <50%RH with out any sensible cooling load easy. Also these dehus have the capability of providing fresh air when the home is occupied and the wind is calm. Imagine <50%RH without any cooling.
This was more of draught year, while many years we get months of wet cool weather in any green grass climate.
Regards TBBear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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10-15-2012, 10:28 PM #48Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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10-16-2012, 01:14 PM #49
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First, I want to thank everyone for their advice, comments and insight.
Next, and I think I know the answer to this, it seems to me that everyone recommends going with the contrator who is the most knowlegable, professional and I beleive is going to do the best install, despite what brands they recommend. Before I started all this, I was leaning towards Trane, but the contractor who recommended Carrier (does not install Trane), seems like the best group for the job.
Finally, at least for this question, what is the cost/benefit with going with 2 two stage systems, vs. a two stage system for upstairs and one stage for downstairs or for that matter the other way around?
Thanks, will look into this.
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10-17-2012, 07:15 PM #50
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GA-HVAC-Tech
Galatians 2:20-21; Colossians 1: 21-22 & 26-27; 3:1-4; Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8
2 Chronicles 7:14
Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service.
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10-17-2012, 09:51 PM #51
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It seems to me that everyone recommends going with the contrator who is the most knowlegable, professional and I beleive is going to do the best install, despite what brands they recommend. Before I started all this, I was leaning towards Trane, but the contractor who recommended Carrier (does not install Trane), seems like the best group for the job.
What is the cost/benefit with going with 2 two stage systems, vs. a two stage system for upstairs and one stage for downstairs or for that matter the other way around?


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