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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    200
    How are you guys that braze flowing N2? Almost all the minis i've installed only have 1 access port for each head....

    Anyway I always flare ad use the cps tool that has the deeper v on the block to get a nice flare with maximum surface area. Oil on the flare nuts and the flare goes a REAL long way toward leaks. I Vacuum to 100 microns or so and hold it under 500 for 30-60 minutes.

    I do mostly Fujitsu and Lennox (Gree) Brand, sometimes Mitsu.
    Chris Anderson
    Anderson Air
    631-657-6230
    http://www.Anderson-Air.com

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    1,088
    Quote Originally Posted by kdean1 View Post
    At the recent Mitsubishi Diamond Contractor class we asked about brazing. The instructor said there is no objection to brazing provided proper procedures are followed - clean the joints, trickle nitrogen and use 15% silver content solder.
    However, he said flaring should not be a problem if a good flaring tool is used and a torque wrench is used for tightening the flare nuts. Also make sure to use the flare nuts that come on the equipment, NOT hardware store flare nuts that cannot withstand the pressure of R410-A.
    Just curious what torque wrenches you use for flare nuts and where can I buy them. I used to cut flares and braze. It did bite me in the a$$ when I returned an indoor unit for warranty and they wouldn't cover it. Now it's flare only indoor and outdoor and braze with nitro on intermediate piping. As stated already, driers are a no-no on most units. I did install a carrier once that came with a drier. Different design.
    You need to put the phone down and get back to work!

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    up in the hizzy
    Posts
    1,295
    Quote Originally Posted by jnsrose View Post
    Just curious what torque wrenches you use for flare nuts and where can I buy them. I used to cut flares and braze. It did bite me in the a$$ when I returned an indoor unit for warranty and they wouldn't cover it. Now it's flare only indoor and outdoor and braze with nitro on intermediate piping. As stated already, driers are a no-no on most units. I did install a carrier once that came with a drier. Different design.
    United sells the torque wrench set for mini-splits, they are about $60.
    Some Mitsubishi "authorized diamond trainers" are making their own rules when it comes to installation and repairs of mini-splits, Meier supply is one of them, their trainer is a clueless clown and he makes stuff up as he goes, when doubt call Mitsubishi, remember if the parts counter guy was any good, he would be on the field making more money.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    1,395
    Quote Originally Posted by jnsrose View Post
    Just curious what torque wrenches you use for flare nuts and where can I buy them.
    http://www.cpsproducts.com/#/p-hand-...enches-tltwsm/
    Here's what I bought. I think I found them online, but I don't recall where. Model TLTWSM.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Anytown USA
    Posts
    2,044
    Quote Originally Posted by david912 View Post
    Holy hell thats one big POS just like the rest of the jap systems.

    We just did a couple Panasonic Eco I VRF systems, 2 condensers and 22 indoor units on one reefer circuit.. All brazed pipe on the mains, suction, hot gas, and liquid, solenoid boxed were brazed as well but flared connections at the indoor unit.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    233
    Quote Originally Posted by y7turbo View Post
    Holy hell thats one big POS just like the rest of the jap systems.

    We just did a couple Panasonic Eco I VRF systems, 2 condensers and 22 indoor units on one reefer circuit.. All brazed pipe on the mains, suction, hot gas, and liquid, solenoid boxed were brazed as well but flared connections at the indoor unit.
    YES . The bad part is i came onto the job after they "flared everything" and the forman on the job is never there, riding the clock. Well me and another guy ended up pulling every unit off the wall and reflaring, also a bunch on the bc controller. its was a nightmare!! ive been playing cleanup on that job for 3 weeks. We got 600 lbs of nito in it thursday, SURE HOPe its all in there monday!

    The moral of the story is make sure you are flaring properly and you shouldnt have a problem, good rule of thumb is about a nickels width of copper stubbed out on your flaring block, and oil while flaring and on your flare nuts while tightening, and a torque wrench you should be good to go. theses guys didnt even have a torque wrench when i got there
    Last edited by david912; 10-14-2012 at 09:55 AM.
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