try just cutting the infeed end off as this is normally where blockage is. just shorten it by an inch and try it.
and i cant sleep thinking of this stupid turbo-air 2 door freezer i put a
compressor in a couple weeks ago..after i did the work i told the customer
to never call ME again on this pile!..( i havent billed him yet) he calls me
to say he's sorry but the thing is running at 20*.....
this thing has a 2 part cap tube and the one that runs through the wall is a ice ball
at the evap and cold at the connection where it comes through the wall and connects
to the cap tube going to the compresor.
have any of you guys replaced said cap tube that runs through the frickin wall?, and
what are the chances of blowing CO2 through the tube to clear it?
*yawn*
try just cutting the infeed end off as this is normally where blockage is. just shorten it by an inch and try it.
We typically run a new cap tube up the back wall, drill a hole through the box, and then silicone the penetration afterwards, its actually not too bad. I've done it on several True's but never on a TurboAir.
Do you think if you buy only the upper half of the cap tube you need, you will get it for half price. This is the only OEM with a two piece cap tube.
Did you change the filter drier? Sure you have the correct charge? About clearing a captube it depends what is blocking it. I've only cleared a catube that was blocked with oil.
I think there are too many bends in the suction to try and send a cap up inside the tube.
I run a new one like trippint inside but I run it with a new suction line too. If you cover it with some metal they will like it better.
I don't want to discourage you but its gonna be a PITA and a lot of time if you were never going back.
If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball
In my experience, your wasting your time trying to blow it out. Assuming that you cut off 1 inch of cap tube when you changed the dryer and drew a 300-500 vacuum, then the cap tube is probably waxed and only thing left is to change it.
Have you considered just changing the cap tube between the drier and the sleeve?
When we did warranty work for TA, had a cooler that had a clogged cap tube. Tech support told me to cut at the sleeve, blow nitrogen through both ways to try to see what section was restricted. The drier side was restricted, they sent out some cap tube, changed it, and it actually worked.
It may have just been blind luck though.
aramas, turboair suggested replacing only the visable cap tube,,,
itsiceman, yes i replaced the filter, and weighed in the charge.
76olds, ill try unsoldering the cap tube and blowing both ways...
For those who have never seen a TurboAir two-piece cap tube, here's an image from their TST/TUR service manual which clearly shows the sleeve referred to earlier:
is there two different sized cap tubes and this is the reason for the "sleeve?
can i get a link to the above??
I don't know about the sizing of the cap tubes, but here's that manual:
TST_TUR_Manual.pdf
Well shoot if it a small under counter what is the problem with changing it
I thought it was an upright where they get foamed in the whole way
If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball
no, im working on a up right reach in freezer tsf-49sd/bk4f0302
i talked to a chic this am at turbo air, she said to blow it out, i laughed and asked to be connected to parts..
i listended to elevator music for 10+ minutes and hung up..
also i did change the cap tube from the filter to the "sleeve" some time ago..that part is clear, its warm, where its cool it from the sleeve foreward
to the ice ball at the evaporator..
For what it's worth, here's the manual for the TSF:
Turbo Air TSF Service Manual
According to this:
http://www.turboairinc.com/Refrigera...sureChart.aspx
It looks like the length that runs through the box ( I believe 90.55 is the length, unable to find any info from our last battle with a TA freezer) is the same id, but the length and id before the sleeve varies depending on the compressor.
The 3 door TA freezer(tsf-72d) that gave my boss all sorts of trouble earlier in the year ended up getting a TXV and a receiver (then we found the defrost heater would intermittanty stick on due to a bad board and may have worked with changing the cap tube from the drier to the sleeve).
Now, I did not care for mounting the sensing bulb to the accumulator, and had to play with the superheat due to excessive txv hunting but,knock on wood, it has been working well.
I have been unable to find any of our notes regarding cap tube sizing or txv info due to someone "just being a little bit cranky" due to all the unbillable hours wasted on this thing.
You might be able to find the cap tube size from the "order online" section and run a new suction line/cap tube up over the top of the box into the evap area.
Good luck.
thanks icemeister..and 76olds, ill buy the unit from my customer before going through all that...
So they are trying to make one size fits all cabinets and bolt on specific C/U's ? ....... Good Grief
If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball
Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
heres an update..today i went back to the case,i took a turner torch and heated up the cap tube going into the evaporator and around the sleeve...it still ran in a vacuum..so i cut the sleeve out, and psi tested the cap tube both ways..it blew clear..so i reassembled it, pulled a vacuum and recharged it..its running.
i told the customer that was a freebee..but left him the invoice for the original compressor install...im going to light some candles at a catholic church for this thing, at least until i get paid..