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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,347

    it's 2:45 am.......

    and i cant sleep thinking of this stupid turbo-air 2 door freezer i put a
    compressor in a couple weeks ago..after i did the work i told the customer
    to never call ME again on this pile!..( i havent billed him yet) he calls me
    to say he's sorry but the thing is running at 20*.....

    this thing has a 2 part cap tube and the one that runs through the wall is a ice ball
    at the evap and cold at the connection where it comes through the wall and connects
    to the cap tube going to the compresor.

    have any of you guys replaced said cap tube that runs through the frickin wall?, and
    what are the chances of blowing CO2 through the tube to clear it?

    *yawn*

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Flat Rock, NC
    Posts
    463
    try just cutting the infeed end off as this is normally where blockage is. just shorten it by an inch and try it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    644
    We typically run a new cap tube up the back wall, drill a hole through the box, and then silicone the penetration afterwards, its actually not too bad. I've done it on several True's but never on a TurboAir.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by trippintl0 View Post
    We typically run a new cap tube up the back wall, drill a hole through the box, and then silicone the penetration afterwards, its actually not too bad. I've done it on several True's but never on a TurboAir.

    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by FSE_ View Post
    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
    I've never imagined that, but WOW, you must be an smart old man! I like your idea, not for this specific app, but this will be of good use when time calls. I like to make that hole in the wall and run with it. Nevertheless, I like your imagination, that's what I call engineering!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,509
    Quote Originally Posted by FSE_ View Post
    Another way without penetrating the box: Drill a hole in the suction line by the evaporator. Cut the suction line by the condensing unit. Feed the cap. tube down the suction line. Solder it all back together. New cap tube, better subcooling and no penetration through the box.
    What about the chance of copper shavings getting into the system and causing another restriction?
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    58

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    What about the chance of copper shavings getting into the system and causing another restriction?
    I said drill, but what I would really do is pop a small hole in the suction with my torch

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    where it's nice and warm
    Posts
    254
    Do you think if you buy only the upper half of the cap tube you need, you will get it for half price. This is the only OEM with a two piece cap tube.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,543
    Did you change the filter drier? Sure you have the correct charge? About clearing a captube it depends what is blocking it. I've only cleared a catube that was blocked with oil.
    I think there are too many bends in the suction to try and send a cap up inside the tube.
    I run a new one like trippint inside but I run it with a new suction line too. If you cover it with some metal they will like it better.
    I don't want to discourage you but its gonna be a PITA and a lot of time if you were never going back.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL.
    Posts
    119
    In my experience, your wasting your time trying to blow it out. Assuming that you cut off 1 inch of cap tube when you changed the dryer and drew a 300-500 vacuum, then the cap tube is probably waxed and only thing left is to change it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    pittsburgh, pa
    Posts
    535
    Have you considered just changing the cap tube between the drier and the sleeve?

    When we did warranty work for TA, had a cooler that had a clogged cap tube. Tech support told me to cut at the sleeve, blow nitrogen through both ways to try to see what section was restricted. The drier side was restricted, they sent out some cap tube, changed it, and it actually worked.

    It may have just been blind luck though.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,347
    aramas, turboair suggested replacing only the visable cap tube,,,

    itsiceman, yes i replaced the filter, and weighed in the charge.

    76olds, ill try unsoldering the cap tube and blowing both ways...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,262
    For those who have never seen a TurboAir two-piece cap tube, here's an image from their TST/TUR service manual which clearly shows the sleeve referred to earlier:

    Name:  turboair_cap_tube_sleeve.jpg
Views: 226
Size:  18.6 KB

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